OO9 009 Diesel Locomotive Shunter Body For KATO 109

This is a 009 Diesel Shunter Body For mounting onto a KATO 109 chassis. 

FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included with this 009 Diesel Shunter Body kit?

The sale is for the 009 diesel shunter body and the matching sub-chassis only. It is supplied unassembled (if needed), unpainted and unprimed. The KATO 109 chassis shown in photos is for illustration only and is not included.

Which chassis is this body designed to fit?

This body is designed specifically to mount onto the KATO 109 chassis. It clips securely onto the KATO chassis, and the body is then a push-fit into the sub-chassis.

Is this compatible with the older KATO 103 chassis?

This particular listing is for the version that fits the KATO 109 chassis. If you wish to use a KATO 103 chassis, please see the other listings that are designed for the earlier 103 version.

What material is the body made from?

The kit is 3D printed in the UK using high-detail resin. All supports are removed, and the parts are cleaned and cured by hand before dispatch.

Is the model supplied painted or pre-primed?

No, all pieces are supplied unprimed and unpainted. They arrive ready for you to prime and paint in your preferred livery.

How is the item packaged and shipped?

The model is dispatched by Royal Mail in the UK and Royal Mail for worldwide orders. Packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the internal packing materials are acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.

The body doesn’t seem to clip properly onto my KATO 109 chassis. What should I check?

First, make sure you are using a genuine KATO 109 chassis and that it is fully assembled and seated correctly. Check for any small bits of resin or flash inside the clip areas and gently remove them if present. Do not force the fit; instead, lightly ease the contact points with fine sandpaper until the body clips securely.

The sub-chassis feels too tight or too loose as a push-fit. How can I adjust it?

If the fit is too tight, lightly sand the mating surfaces on the sub-chassis or inside the body with fine-grit paper, testing frequently. If it feels slightly loose, a tiny amount of non-permanent adhesive (such as a small spot of tacky glue) can help, while still allowing you to remove the body later if needed.

There are visible support marks or slight lines on the surface. Is this normal?

Yes. While we do our very best to remove support marks, some fine sanding may still be required before painting. Use fine-grit sanding sticks or papers and work gently to preserve surface detail.

My model arrived damaged in the post. What should I do?

If the piece has been broken during shipping, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging and get in touch. We cannot be responsible for breakages after safe delivery, but if it has been damaged in transit we will see what we can do to help put things right.

I accidentally broke a part while handling it. Can this be repaired?

Resin can be delicate and is best handled with care. Minor breaks can often be repaired with a suitable model resin or cyanoacrylate (super) glue. Hold the parts in alignment until the bond sets, then gently sand and touch up with filler if needed before priming.

Do I need to do any preparation before priming and painting?

All parts are cleaned and cured by hand and supplied with supports removed, but they may benefit from a light wash in mild soapy water and a soft brush to remove any remaining dust or handling residue. Allow to dry fully, then carry out any minor sanding or finishing before applying primer.

What type of primer should I use on the resin body?

Use a primer that is suitable for resin and plastic miniatures. A good quality hobby aerosol or airbrush primer designed for model kits works well. Apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat to preserve fine detail.

Are there any special tips for painting this diesel shunter body?

Once primed, use thin coats of acrylic or enamel model paints. Build up colour gradually to avoid obscuring details. Masking tape designed for modelling can help with sharp colour separations. Always allow each coat to dry thoroughly before adding the next or applying weathering.

Can I weather the model after painting?

Yes, once your paint is fully cured, you can use your usual weathering methods such as washes, dry-brushing or powders. Just treat the model as you would any other resin or plastic locomotive body, and consider sealing your work with a suitable clear varnish.

Do I need to assemble anything before painting?

The body and sub-chassis arrangement is designed to allow easy painting prior to final assembly. You can paint the body and sub-chassis separately, then push-fit the body into the sub-chassis and clip it onto the KATO 109 chassis once everything is fully dry. This also makes it easy to re-use the chassis in future if needed.