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The kit is printed using high detail resin in the UK and the sale is for the chassis, body and sundry dress up items only. It comes unpainted and supplied without the tenshodo chassis which is shown here for information only. The preferred chassis for this model is a 35mm wheelbase with the 14mm diameter wheels.
The first few pictures shows the kit painted so you can see how good the finish is.Ā
Air Tank
Instrument cluster
Gear box
Air Filter
Exhaust Stack
Filler cap
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FAQ ā Product FAQs
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is included in this diesel loco kit?
This kit includes thirteen high-detail grey resin parts: a chassis shell suitable for a Tenshodo Spud or Hanazono power unit (preferably 35mm wheelbase with 14mm diameter wheels), the Deutz OMZ 117 style body, 2 x coupling blocks, engine block, air tank, instrument cluster, gear box, air filter, exhaust stack, filler cap and 2 x engine covers.
What scale and track gauge is this model for?
This loco is designed for GN15 layouts. GN15 is essentially narrow gauge G-scale, modelled at 1:22.5 scale running on 16.5mm gauge track (standard OO/HO gauge track).
Does the kit come ready to run?
No, this is a static resin kit for the body and detailing parts only. It is supplied unassembled, unprimed and unpainted, and does not include the Tenshodo or Hanazono motorised chassis. The powered chassis shown in photos is for illustration only.
What type of glue should I use for assembly?
Standard superglue (cyanoacrylate) works very well for a permanent bond between the resin parts. If you prefer a bond that is a little less permanent, Roket glue is a good alternative. Traditional plastic cement will not work on this resin.
Where is the kit produced and how is it shipped?
The kit is printed in high detail resin in the UK. It is dispatched by Royal Mail in eco-friendly packaging: the outer packaging uses recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the inner packing is acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.
Is the model suitable for workyards and industrial layouts?
Yes, the loco is based on a Deutz OMZ 117 industrial diesel and is ideal for GN15 workyards, industrial estates and similar narrow gauge industrial scenes.
My parts arrived with slight marks or lines. Is that normal?
All items are cleaned and cured by hand and we do our best to remove support marks. On close inspection you may still see very fine marks or print lines. These are normal for high-detail resin printing and can usually be removed with light sanding before priming.
What should I do if a part is broken on arrival?
If a part has clearly been damaged in the post, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging as soon as you open it. Contact the seller with these images and they will see what they can do to help. Please note that they cannot be responsible for breakages that occur after safe delivery.
How delicate are the resin parts?
Resin gives excellent detail but can be quite brittle, especially on thin items like the exhaust stack or small dress-up parts. Handle the pieces gently, avoid dropping them, and support thinner parts when sanding or cleaning.
Can I run this body on a different chassis than the recommended one?
The body and chassis shell are designed for a Tenshodo Spud or Hanazono type unit, with a preferred 35mm wheelbase and 14mm diameter wheels. You may be able to adapt other similar units, but this may require your own modifications and test fitting.
Is any priming or painting done before shipping?
No. All parts are supplied unprimed and unpainted, with supports removed and the resin fully cured. They are ready for you to do any final sanding, priming and painting to suit your layout.
Can I use this body on a non-GN15 layout?
The model is proportioned for 1:22.5 scale on 16.5mm track. You can, of course, use it in any freelance setting you like, but it will look most ācorrectā alongside other GN15 or similar large-scale narrow gauge stock.
The body does not seem to sit correctly on my Tenshodo chassis. What should I check?
First, confirm that you are using a suitable unit, ideally a 35mm wheelbase chassis with 14mm diameter wheels. Check that there are no resin sprues or small support remnants inside the chassis shell. A gentle clean-up with a fine file can help. Also ensure that any wiring or pickups on the motor unit are not fouling the inside of the resin chassis.
My superglue joints are weak or not bonding. Any tips?
Resin can be slightly glossy, which reduces glue grip. Lightly sand or scrape the mating surfaces to give them a key, and make sure they are clean and free of dust or grease. Use fresh superglue, apply a small amount to one surface only, and hold the pieces firmly together until the glue grabs.
The loco rocks or sits unevenly on the track. What might be wrong?
This is usually due to the powered chassis rather than the resin shell. Check that the Tenshodo or Hanazono unit is fully clipped together and that all four wheels sit flat on a known straight piece of track. Make sure the resin body is not twisted and that it is not pressing down unevenly on the chassis. If necessary, adjust or shim the mounting points inside the shell.
There are small bubbles or surface flaws. How can I fix them?
Minor surface flaws can be filled with a small amount of modelling putty or thick primer. Let the filler cure fully, then sand smooth with fine abrasive paper. Once primed, these small imperfections should disappear under the paint.
My paint is not adhering well to the resin. What should I do?
Wash the parts gently in warm water with a drop of mild detergent, then rinse and let them dry completely. Lightly scuff the surface with fine abrasive to remove any remaining sheen. Always use a suitable primer for resin before applying your main colours; this greatly improves paint adhesion and durability.
Do I need to wash the parts before painting?
Although the parts are cleaned and cured by hand, it is still good practice to give them a quick wash in warm, soapy water to remove any remaining handling oils or dust. Rinse well and allow them to dry fully before sanding, priming or painting.
What type of paint works best on this resin kit?
Most hobby acrylics and enamels work well once the parts are properly cleaned and primed. The key steps are: wash, lightly sand if needed, apply a good quality primer suitable for resin, and then build up your colour coats. Always test your paint on a hidden area first.
In what order should I assemble and paint the parts?
A simple approach is:
- Clean and lightly sand all parts.
- Test fit the body, chassis shell and engine covers.
- Glue the main body and chassis shell together once you are happy with the fit.
- Prime the main assembly and the separate detail parts.
- Paint the base colours on the body and details.
- Glue on smaller items like the exhaust stack, air tank, instrument cluster and filler cap after painting.
- Add final weathering and sealing coats if desired.
Any tips for painting an industrial look on this Deutz-style loco?
For an industrial feel, choose solid, workmanlike colours (greens, reds, or faded industrial greys) and then add light weathering: dry-brushed highlights on edges, subtle rust tones around the exhaust and filler cap, and dusty or oily streaks near the engine block and gear box. Thin layers and patience give the best results on the fine resin detail.
