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The Hunslet Quarry locomotives are a favourite among OO9 modellers for a few key reasons. First, their compact yet powerful design makes them ideal for narrow gauge layouts with tight curves and limited space—perfect for shelf-based or micro layouts. These locos were originally built for rugged work in Welsh slate quarries, so they have a distinct industrial charm, with outside frames, low-slung boilers, and chunky proportions that look great in miniature. Modellers also love the rich historical context: each locomotive has its own story, often tied to specific quarries like Dinorwic or Penrhyn. With their classic lines and hard-working heritage, they offer both visual appeal and storytelling potential, whether weathered and working or polished and preserved.

The Hungarian C50 is a small diesel-hydraulic locomotive built from the 1950s onwards for industrial and agricultural narrow gauge lines across Hungary. Its boxy, utilitarian design and simple mechanical construction made it reliable and easy to maintain, which is exactly why it’s become a cult favourite in the OO9 modelling community. Its quirky Central European charm and rugged good looks give it a distinctive presence on any layout. With a short wheelbase and compact footprint, the C50 handles tight curves with ease, making it ideal for micro layouts or industrial scenes. Modellers love pairing it with tipper wagons, peat trains, or forestry stock for an authentic continental feel. Whether you're going for weathered and work-stained or freshly restored, the C50 adds an unusual and characterful twist to any OO9 setup.

Gluing Parts

• Lamps & Small Details: I recommend using superglue (cyanoacrylate). It provides a strong, permanent bond and works very well with resin parts.

• Roof & Body to Chassis: For these larger connections, a small amount of PVA glue is ideal. It creates a secure hold but can be separated later if needed. This is especially useful if you ever want to swap out the chassis or reuse the body.

• Avoid Using Epoxy or Superglue for the main body-to-chassis joint if you may need to disassemble in the future—they will create a permanent bond.

Fitting Windows

• For attaching clear windows, PVA glue works well and dries clear.

• Alternatively, "Canopy Glue/ Glu N Glaze" (used in model aircraft) is excellent—it dries completely transparent and doesn’t fog or mark the windows.

Straightening Warped Parts

Occasionally, some parts may have a slight warp due to the nature of resin. Luckily, this is easy to fix:

• Resin is thermoplastic, so it responds well to gentle heat.

• Use hot (but not boiling) water to soak the warped part for a few seconds. Once softened, carefully bend it back into shape and let it cool to set.

• Alternatively, a small hobby heat gun, hairdryer or room heater on a low setting can be used to gently warm the part. Once it becomes pliable, adjust it as needed and allow it to cool.