GN15 - Clayton Electric locomotive - easy build kit

FAQ – Clayton-Style Electric Loco Kit for GN15

What exactly is this model, and what scale is it?

This is a resin kit for a Clayton-style electric locomotive designed for GN15 layouts such as work yards, gas factories and industrial estates. GN15 is basically narrow gauge G-scale, modelled at 1:22.5 scale running on 16.5 mm gauge track.

What parts are included in the kit?

The kit consists of seven grey resin-printed pieces: a chassis suitable for a Tenshodo or Hanazono motor bogie, the brush electric body with integral roof, a motor block/seat, an interior electric panel, glazing for the windows, two coupling blocks and a 3D scanned driver figure. Roof supports are supplied as brass rod for extra robustness, and a laser-cut acrylic disc is included for the non-functional front light.

Is the model supplied painted or assembled?

The model is supplied unassembled (where needed), unprimed and unpainted. The photos of a painted locomotive are just to show how it can look when finished. All resin parts are cleaned, cured and supplied with supports removed, ready for you to prime and paint.

Do I need to buy anything else to make it run?

Yes. The kit does not include a motor chassis. It is designed to take a 35 mm wheelbase Tenshodo “spud” (or similar, such as a Hanazono unit) with wheels in the 10.5 mm to 12 mm diameter range. You will also need your own track, controller and any operational couplings you prefer.

What tools and materials will I need for assembly?

You will need superglue (cyanoacrylate) for the resin components and brass roof supports. Basic modelling tools such as a sharp hobby knife, fine files or sanding sticks, tweezers and a small drill or pin vice are helpful for test fitting and clean-up. For finishing, car body primer is recommended as the first coat, followed by acrylic paints to suit your chosen livery.

How is the kit packaged and shipped?

The kit is dispatched from the UK by Royal Mail. Packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, while the inner packing materials are acid free and made from approximately 99% recycled pulp fibres.

Troubleshooting FAQs

My parts don’t seem to fit together perfectly. What should I check first?

Start by dry-fitting everything without glue. Check for any remaining support nubs or tiny printing marks and gently trim or sand them away. A light pass with fine wet-and-dry paper on mating surfaces often improves the fit. Make sure the chassis, motor block and body all sit square before you commit with superglue.

The Tenshodo or Hanazono unit is a tight fit in the chassis. How can I adjust it safely?

Do not force the motor bogie into place. Instead, lightly scrape or sand the inside faces of the resin chassis where it binds, removing a little material at a time and checking the fit frequently. Keep the chassis sides parallel so the motor unit sits level, and keep dust away from the motor and gears.

The brass roof supports don’t line up with their holes.

Check that the brass rods are cut to the correct length and that the locating holes are clear of resin or paint. You can gently open out the holes with a small drill bit or reamer used by hand. Dry-fit the rods and tweak any gentle bends until they sit naturally before gluing.

There are visible print or support marks on the surface. How should I deal with them?

Although supports are removed for you, some fine sanding may still be required. Use fine-grit (around 600–1000) wet-and-dry paper or sanding sponges, working carefully to avoid flattening detail. Rinse the parts afterwards to remove dust and let them dry fully before priming.

The model rocks or sits unevenly on the track.

First, check that the Tenshodo or Hanazono unit is properly seated and not twisted in the chassis. Ensure the wheels are correctly mounted and free of debris. If there is a slight twist in the resin body or chassis, you may be able to correct minor warping by gently warming the part in lukewarm (not boiling) water, carefully straightening it and holding it in position while it cools.

Assembly & Painting FAQs

How should I assemble the resin parts without causing damage?

Always test-fit before gluing. Use small amounts of superglue applied with a fine applicator or cocktail stick rather than flooding the joint. Support thin areas with your fingers or a soft surface while pressing parts together, and allow each joint to cure fully before handling the model by that part.

Do I need to wash the parts before priming?

The parts are supplied cleaned and cured by hand, but after any sanding it is sensible to give them a quick rinse in lukewarm water with a tiny drop of mild detergent. Rinse thoroughly and let them dry completely before applying primer to ensure good adhesion.

What primer should I use on the resin and driver figure?

Car body primer is recommended as an ideal first coat on both the locomotive and the driver figure. Apply light mist coats rather than a heavy wet coat so you keep all the crisp detail. Make sure the parts are clean, dry and free from dust before priming.

Can I use acrylic paints on this model, and how should I apply them?

Yes, acrylic paints are specifically mentioned as suitable for finishing the model. Once primed, apply acrylics in several thin coats rather than one thick coat, whether by brush or airbrush. This gives a smoother finish and preserves the fine detail on the body and driver.

How should I paint and install the glazing and headlight lens?

Paint the body and interior first, then install the clear window glazing and the laser-cut acrylic disc for the front light at the end. Avoid getting primer or paint on the clear parts; masking can help. Fix them in place with tiny spots of clear-drying adhesive, taking care not to fog the glazing or lens.