009 OO9 Steam Tram Rail motor Locomotive ,fits Kato 105 double bogie chassis
- Regular price
- £25.00
- Sale price
- £25.00
- Regular price
Product details
Creative Commons Attribution https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4612306 Model from Thingiverse, credit given to teebee
FAQ – Product FAQs
OO9 Steam Powered Rail Car – Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is included in this kit?
The kit includes the resin rail car body, the matching kit chassis to suit the Kato 11-105 double bogie chassis, and a separate interior seating insert. All parts are supplied unassembled (where applicable), unprimed and unpainted, with all printing supports removed. The Kato 11-105 powered chassis is not included and is shown in photos for information only.
Which chassis is this body designed to fit?
This OO9 steam powered rail car body is designed specifically to clip onto a Kato 11-105 double bogie chassis. The proportions and mounting points have been reworked so that the chassis fits easily into place and clips securely.
Is this model suitable for any particular layout type or era?
The rail car is ideal for a local service on a country narrow gauge line in OO9 scale. The Kato 11-105 chassis and overall styling fit well with small steam-era and early internal combustion-era narrow gauge layouts, especially where compact rail cars would be used on rural branch or estate lines.
Is the model ready to run out of the box?
No, this is a kit. The resin parts are supplied unpainted and unassembled (where needed). You will need to provide and fit your own Kato 11-105 chassis, carry out any minor clean-up, and then prime, paint and assemble the model before use.
Where are these models made and how are they produced?
All models are printed in-house in the UK using high-detail resin. Each item is cleaned and cured by hand, and supports are removed before shipping so you can go straight to any final surface preparation, priming and painting.
Can I add my own figures or extra details?
Yes. The interior seating is a separate piece that can be painted on its own, making it easy to add your own driver and passengers. The model also includes details such as coal in the bunker, and you can add further aftermarket details or weathering as you wish.
My Kato 11-105 chassis feels tight when clipping into the body. What should I do?
First, check that there are no small bits of cured resin or printing residue inside the body or around the chassis mounting points. If needed, very lightly sand or scrape any high spots on the inside of the body, taking off a minimal amount at a time. The chassis is intended to be a simple push-fit clip, so it should seat firmly without force once any minor obstructions are removed.
The body does not seem to sit level on the chassis. How can I fix this?
Ensure the Kato chassis is fully clipped into place and that the interior seating insert is properly seated and not resting on any raised areas. Check for any warping or small lumps inside the body; a little careful sanding or filing on the inside contact points usually resolves alignment issues so the rail car sits level.
I can see faint lines or marks on the surface. Is this normal?
Fine layer lines or faint support marks can sometimes be visible with high-detail resin printing. The models are cleaned and support marks are removed by hand, but a small amount of fine sanding with a smooth sanding stick or fine wet-and-dry paper before priming is recommended for the best finish.
Some small parts arrived broken. What should I do?
If the damage appears to have occurred in the post, please take clear photos of the broken parts and the packaging as soon as possible and get in touch. Resin is delicate and we cannot cover accidental damage after arrival, but we will always do our best to help with items damaged during delivery.
The resin feels quite fragile. How should I handle it?
Resin can be delicate, especially with fine details. Handle the body and interior by the thicker sections, avoid twisting or flexing thin parts, and try not to drop any components. When working on the model, it helps to rest it on a soft surface such as a foam block or folded cloth.
Do I need to do any sanding or cleanup before painting?
All supports are removed and the parts are cleaned and cured, but some fine sanding is often useful. Gently sand any visible support marks, faint ridges or small imperfections. Focus on flat sides and roof areas where light will catch the surface most. Always test-fit parts after sanding to ensure the fit remains snug.
How do I assemble the body, interior and chassis?
Assembly is designed to be straightforward:
- Test-fit the Kato 11-105 chassis into the resin body to understand how it clips in.
- Paint the body and interior seating separately.
- Once painted and fully dry, clip the Kato chassis into the body.
- Drop the painted interior seating into place so it sits over and hides the motor.
The body is a simple push-fit onto the chassis, and the interior insert is designed to drop into position without glue in most cases.
Should I glue the interior seating in place?
Often the interior will sit securely as a drop-in piece. If you prefer a permanent fit, you can add a very small amount of suitable model glue to hidden contact points. Avoid excess glue near the motor area and ensure everything is completely dry before running the chassis.
What primer and paint should I use on the resin parts?
Use a primer that is suitable for resin miniatures or plastic models. Once primed, you can use your preferred model paints (such as acrylics or enamels) applied by brush or airbrush. Always follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions and allow adequate drying time between coats.
Any tips for painting the interior and coal bunker?
Paint the interior seating before installation so you have easy access to all surfaces. You can pick out seat cushions, floorboards and interior walls in different tones for extra realism. For the coal in the bunker, a dark base coat followed by a few lighter dry-brushed highlights will bring out the texture nicely.
Can I weather the model to look more used?
Yes. After basic painting, you can add light weathering with washes, dry-brushing and powders to simulate soot, dust and general wear, especially around the roof, underframe and coal bunker. Apply weathering gradually so you can stop when you reach the effect you like.
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