Two Lamp huts with glazing - OO9/OO/HO based on Buckfastleigh buildings

This kit consists of two huts of a typical lamp hut and was based on the one at Buckfastleigh operated by the South Devon Railway. Two are included along with laser cut glazing to fit into the window recess from inside

The footprint of the building is is 37mm x 25mm and 31mm high.  
 
 Lamp huts were small structures found on steam railways that were used to store and maintain the lamps and lanterns used for signaling and illumination purposes. In the early days of steam railways, signal lamps were manually operated by railway workers who would stand on the trackside and wave a colored flag or lantern to indicate to the train driver what to do, such as whether to stop or proceed with caution.  

As railways became more complex, signaling systems became more sophisticated, and the number and types of lamps required increased. Lamp huts were built to house and protect the lamps and lanterns from the elements and to make it easier for workers to access and maintain them.

The huts were typically small, wooden buildings located near to the railway tracks, and contained shelves or racks to store the different types of lamps and lanterns. The lamps would be filled with oil or gas and checked regularly to ensure they were in good working order.

Signal lamps and lanterns were crucial for safe railway operation, especially at night when visibility was limited. They were used to signal to train drivers when to stop, slow down, or proceed with caution, as well as to warn of any obstacles or hazards on the track ahead. Lamp huts played a vital role in maintaining the signaling equipment and ensuring that the railway ran safely and smoothly.

 When painted this is a nice addition to any layout, using normal car primer and acrylic paints. The pictures show the painted versions which are not included.  

The model is shipped from stock and is ready to paint.

We print and make our own models here in the UK using high detail resin. The sale is for the unpainted building and laser cut glazing.
 
Finishing: All items are cleaned and cured by hand. They are unassembled and ready for you to prime and paint. We do our very best to remove support marks but some fine sanding may be required. All pieces and parts come unprimed and unpainted with all supports removed. Please do bear in mind that resin can be quite delicate so try to avoid dropping your parts! Sadly, we can't be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images and we will of course see what we can do to help. 

FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions – Lamp Hut Twin Kit

What exactly is included in this lamp hut kit?

This kit includes two unpainted lamp huts based on the prototype at Buckfastleigh on the South Devon Railway, plus laser-cut glazing pieces designed to fit into the window recesses from the inside. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed, and unpainted, with supports removed.

What are the dimensions of each hut?

Each hut has a footprint of approximately 37mm x 25mm and stands around 31mm high, making it a compact but characterful addition to a steam-era railway scene.

What material are the huts made from?

The huts are produced in high-detail resin, printed and made in the UK. This allows for crisp detail while keeping the parts relatively delicate, so they reward careful handling and finishing.

Are the huts supplied painted or finished in any way?

No, the huts are supplied unpainted and unprimed. The images you may have seen of painted examples are for illustration only and are not included. You will need to prime and paint the huts yourself.

Do the huts come fully assembled?

No, the kit is supplied unassembled. All items are cleaned and cured by hand, with supports removed, and are ready for you to glue together, add the glazing, then prime and paint.

What era and setting are these lamp huts suitable for?

These huts are typical of steam railway practice and are ideal for steam-era layouts, especially those inspired by British branch lines and heritage railways. They work well near signal boxes, yards, and trackside maintenance areas where lamps would historically have been stored and serviced.

What is the glazing made from, and how is it used?

The kit includes laser-cut glazing pieces sized to fit into the window recesses from the inside. They are clear pieces designed to represent glass panes and should be installed after painting the main structure, using a suitable clear or minimal-mark adhesive.

How are the models prepared before shipping?

Each piece is cleaned and cured by hand after printing. All supports are removed, and the parts are checked so they are ready for you to assemble, prime, and paint. While we do our best to remove support marks, some light sanding may still be required for the smoothest finish.

Is this kit suitable for beginners?

Yes, the huts are straightforward to assemble and paint, making them a good project for beginners who are comfortable with basic gluing, light sanding, and brush or airbrush painting. More experienced modellers can add extra weathering and detailing to taste.

Can I modify or kit-bash these huts?

Yes, the huts lend themselves well to small modifications such as adding internal details, lighting, or extra weathering. Just remember the parts are resin and relatively delicate, so cut and drill gently if you choose to alter them.

Where are these models made and shipped from?

All models are printed and made in the UK using high-detail resin and shipped from stock. This helps keep supply consistent and supports quick dispatch.

Are any lamps or interior details included?

No, the sale is for the unpainted hut buildings and the laser-cut glazing only. Any lamps, figures, or interior fittings you may see in reference photos are not included and would need to be sourced separately.

My model arrived with a part broken in the post. What should I do?

If the piece has been damaged in transit, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging as soon as possible and contact the seller. With images, we can assess the situation and see what we can do to help.

The resin feels delicate. Is that normal?

Yes, high-detail resin is naturally more delicate than some other modelling materials. This allows for fine detail but means you should handle the parts carefully and avoid dropping them. Once assembled and mounted on your layout, they are much less vulnerable.

There are faint marks where supports were removed. How should I deal with these?

Some fine support marks are normal even after careful cleaning. These can usually be removed with light sanding using fine-grit abrasive (around 600–1000 grit). Sand gently, check your progress frequently, and avoid over-sanding sharp details.

My glazing pieces don’t seem to fit the window recesses. What can I check?

First, make sure any paint or primer has not built up excessively around the window recesses. If necessary, carefully scrape or sand away excess paint. Check that you are fitting the correct glazing piece to each opening and that you are inserting them from the inside as intended.

The resin doesn’t seem to take paint well. What might be wrong?

Resin needs a good primer to accept paint properly. Make sure the model is clean and free of dust and fingerprints, then apply a suitable primer before using your chosen paints. If paint is beading or not adhering, check that the surface is clean and that the primer has fully cured.

A small part has snapped while I was working on the kit. Can it be repaired?

Minor breaks in resin can often be repaired with a suitable modelling or cyanoacrylate (super) glue. Dry-fit the parts first to ensure alignment, then apply a small amount of glue and hold or clamp gently until set. For very fine pieces, work slowly and avoid excess pressure.

Do I need to wash the parts before painting?

The parts are cleaned and cured by hand before shipping, but it is still good practice to gently wash them in lukewarm water with a little mild detergent, then allow them to dry completely. This helps ensure the best possible adhesion for your primer and paint.

What kind of primer should I use on these huts?

A standard automotive (car) aerosol primer works very well on resin and is specifically recommended for this kit. Choose a fine or plastic-compatible primer and apply in light coats to avoid obscuring detail.

What paints work best for finishing the huts?

Acrylic paints are recommended and work nicely over a good primer. They are easy to thin, dry quickly, and are ideal for layering and weathering effects. Enamels can also be used if you prefer, as long as they are applied over a fully cured primer.

When should I install the glazing?

It is usually best to paint and weather the main structure first, then install the glazing from the inside once all painting is complete and fully dry. This helps keep the glazing clear and free of paint smudges.

How can I make the huts look realistically weathered?

After your base colours are applied, you can use techniques such as washes, dry-brushing, and subtle streaking to suggest soot, grime, and sun-fading. Focus on areas where water would collect and where workers would frequently handle doors and frames.

Any tips for integrating the huts into my layout?

Place them near signal boxes, sidings, or yard areas where lamps would logically be stored. You can blend them into the scene with:

• Scattered coal, oil cans, or tool details around the hut
• Weathered ground textures such as cinders or compacted dirt
• Subtle vegetation like grass tufts and weeds at the base