Sandplace Station halt - OO9/OO/HO based on Looe Valley Sandplace station
- Regular price
- $18.00
- Sale price
- $18.00
- Regular price
Product details
A Really Nice Small station building based on the one at Sandplace on the Looe Valley line
This building takes its design influence from the Station halt on the Looe Valley line.
When painted this is a nice addition to any layout, easy to use normal car primer and acrylic paints. The first picture shows the actual building in situ.
FAQ – Product FAQs
Frequently Asked Questions
What is this station building based on?
This model is based on the small station halt at Sandplace on the Looe Valley line. The design takes its main visual cues from the real building, making it ideal for layouts inspired by that line or similar rural halts.
What are the dimensions of the model?
The footprint of the building is approximately 53mm x 38mm, and the overall height is about 43mm. It’s compact enough for smaller layouts, branch lines, or as a simple halt on its own.
What parts are included in the product?
The model comes as the main station building plus separate columns that you can superglue to the building. It is supplied unpainted and ready for you to finish in your preferred colours.
Is this suitable for small layouts or micro-layouts?
Yes, the small footprint makes it very suitable for compact layouts, micro-layouts, and small branch line scenes where space is limited but you still want a characterful station building.
Is the model ready to use straight out of the box?
It is ready to paint straight from stock. You will need to glue the separate columns in place and paint the model, but there is no major construction required beyond that.
Can I use this as a standalone halt without a larger station?
Absolutely. The building works very well as a standalone halt on a rural or branch line, and can also be combined with simple platforms, shelters, or lineside details to create a complete small station scene.
What kind of glue should I use for the separate columns?
Use a good quality cyanoacrylate (superglue) to attach the separate columns to the main building. Apply a small amount, hold the parts together firmly for a few seconds, and allow the glue to fully cure before painting.
What type of paint and primer should I use?
The model takes normal car primer very well, followed by acrylic paints. A light coat of automotive or hobby car primer gives a good key for your acrylic top coats and helps the paint adhere evenly.
Do I need to do any surface preparation before painting?
It is a good idea to:
- Check for any small moulding residues and gently remove them if present.
- Lightly wash the model in warm, soapy water and let it dry fully to remove any surface dust or residues.
- Dry-fit the columns to see how they sit before gluing and painting.
Can I repaint or strip the model later if I change my mind?
In most cases, acrylic paints can be removed with suitable acrylic paint removers or gentle cleaners, but always test on a hidden area first. Avoid harsh solvents that could damage the model surface.
Is this model specific to any particular railway company or era?
The building is inspired by Sandplace on the Looe Valley line, but its simple rural style means it can represent a small halt in a variety of eras. You can adapt the look with your choice of colours and signage.
Can I combine this building with other structures on my layout?
Yes, the compact size makes it easy to combine with platforms, footpaths, small car parks, or goods areas. It works nicely as the focal point of a small halt or as an additional building on a larger station scene.
The columns don’t seem to fit properly. What should I do?
If the columns are not seating correctly:
- Dry-fit each column first to see where it touches the building.
- Gently trim or lightly sand any small casting ridges or high spots.
- Check that the surfaces are clean and free from dust before gluing.
The glue joint is weak or the columns keep coming off. How can I fix this?
For stronger joints:
- Ensure both surfaces are clean and dry before applying glue.
- Use fresh superglue; older glue can lose strength.
- Apply a small amount of glue, press firmly together, and hold until set.
- Avoid moving the model until the glue has fully cured.
My primer is going on too thick and hiding details. What can I do?
If the primer is obscuring detail:
- Use several light coats instead of one heavy coat.
- Increase the distance between the spray can and the model slightly.
- Allow each coat to dry before adding another.
- If necessary, gently rub back with very fine abrasive to recover detail.
The acrylic paint looks patchy or streaky. How do I improve the finish?
To improve coverage:
- Make sure the primer coat is even and fully dry.
- Thin your acrylic paint slightly if brushing, and use multiple thin coats.
- Allow each coat to dry fully before applying the next.
The model doesn’t sit flat on my baseboard. How can I level it?
If the building rocks slightly:
- Check the base for any small casting bumps and gently sand them flat.
- Use a thin layer of adhesive or filler under the base to bed it onto the platform or ground surface.
- Press it into place while the adhesive is still workable and check it from all angles.
Should I glue the columns before or after painting?
Both approaches work, but many modellers find it easiest to glue the columns on first, then prime and paint the building as a single unit. This helps the paint cover the joints and gives a more seamless finish.
How do I get a neat edge where the columns meet the walls?
For clean edges:
- Prime the model after the columns are attached so everything has the same base colour.
- Use a fine brush to pick out edges and details with your top colours.
- If paint creeps into the wrong area, let it dry and carefully touch up with the base colour.
What order should I paint the different parts of the building?
A simple sequence is:
- Prime the whole model.
- Paint the main walls and roof colours.
- Pick out the columns and trim.
- Add any final detail work and gentle weathering if desired.
Can I weather the building to look more realistic?
Yes, once your main colours are dry you can use thin acrylic washes, dry-brushing, or weathering powders to add subtle dirt, shadows, and roof staining. Build up weathering gradually so you keep control of the effect.
How can I match the look of the real Sandplace building?
The first product photo shows the real building in situ, which is a useful reference. Study the picture for wall colours, roof tones, and weathering patterns, then choose acrylic paints that get you close and adjust with light weathering to taste.
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