🚧 GN15 Self-Contained Tipper Kit – Fits Tenshodo / Hanazono Chassis – Industrial Narrow Gauge Resin Model
Add a touch of rugged realism to your GN15 layout, quarry, or mine scene with this detailed Self-Contained Tipper Locomotive kit.
Printed in high-detail resin in the UK, this compact diesel-powered tipper is perfect for industrial and mining settings.
Assembly is simple — just use superglue (or Roket glue for a semi-permanent bond).
The chassis features pockets for lead shot or Liquid Gravity, and you can even add extra ballast inside the tipper body for improved traction.
Please note: the Tenshodo chassis is not included and is shown in photos for reference only.
⚙️ Features:
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Designed for GN15 scale (1:22.5 on 16.5 mm track) – narrow-gauge G-scale proportion
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Compatible with Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono chassis (31 mm wheelbase with 10.5 mm wheels recommended)
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Working-style self-contained tipper design – ideal for mines, quarries, and industrial estates
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Printed in high-detail resin with crisp surface detail
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Easy assembly with superglue
📦 Kit Contents:
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Chassis (for Tenshodo / Hanazono)
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Tipper body
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Tipper bucket
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Control handle
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Oil can
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Diesel power unit
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2 × coupling blocks
(Seven resin-printed parts in grey – slight colour variation may occur.)
🎨 Finishing & Assembly:
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All resin parts are cleaned and UV-cured by hand
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Supplied unassembled and unpainted – ready for primer and paint
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Minor sanding or cleanup may be required
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Use car or model primer, finish with acrylics or enamels
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Resin is fragile – handle with care
🌍 Packaging & Shipping:
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Eco-friendly packaging – recyclable exterior and 99 % recycled, acid-free interior pulp
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Dispatched via Royal Mail (UK)
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Condition: New, unpainted, unassembled
If your item arrives damaged in transit, please send clear photos and we’ll do our best to help.
GN15 Self-Contained Tipper Kit – FAQ
What scale is this kit, and what track does it run on?
This kit is designed for GN15 scale, which is 1:22.5 running on standard 16.5 mm gauge track. It represents a narrow-gauge industrial tipper locomotive suitable for mines, quarries, and other industrial scenes.
Does the kit include a motorised chassis?
No. The Tenshodo Spud or Hanazono motorised chassis is not included. The printed chassis in the kit is designed to accept a suitable Tenshodo or Hanazono unit (31 mm wheelbase with 10.5 mm wheels recommended).
What exactly comes in the box?
You receive seven grey resin-printed parts: chassis (for Tenshodo / Hanazono), tipper body, tipper bucket, control handle, oil can, diesel power unit, and two coupling blocks. Parts may vary slightly in shade due to the resin.
Is the model supplied ready-built or painted?
The kit is supplied new, unassembled, and unpainted. All parts are cleaned and UV-cured by hand, but you will need to assemble, prime, and paint the model yourself.
What glue and paints should I use?
Use superglue (or Roket glue if you prefer a slightly less permanent bond) for assembly. For finishing, use a car or model primer, then paint with your choice of acrylics or enamels.
How is the kit packaged and shipped?
The kit is packed in eco-friendly packaging with a recyclable exterior and 99% recycled, acid-free interior pulp. Orders are dispatched via Royal Mail within the UK.
How do I fit the Tenshodo or Hanazono chassis into the printed chassis?
The resin chassis is designed to accept a Tenshodo Spud or Hanazono unit with a 31 mm wheelbase and 10.5 mm wheels. Test-fit the chassis carefully, check that the motor block sits flat and square, and only then secure it with small spots of superglue if desired, avoiding the moving parts.
My chassis feels too light and slips on the track. How can I improve traction?
The chassis includes pockets specifically designed for lead shot or Liquid Gravity. You can also add extra ballast inside the tipper body. Add weight gradually and keep it low and central so the chassis remains stable and runs smoothly.
The resin parts don’t seem to fit perfectly. What should I do?
Minor sanding or cleanup may be required. Use fine wet-and-dry paper or small files to remove any slight printing nubs or high spots. Test-fit each joint before gluing and adjust a little at a time until the parts sit square.
There are small surface marks on the resin. Is this normal?
Yes, small layer lines or tiny artefacts can appear on resin prints, even after hand cleaning and UV curing. These usually disappear under a light sanding and a coat of primer. Concentrate on visible areas such as the tipper sides and cab area.
What should I do if the model arrives damaged?
If anything has been damaged in transit, please take clear photos of the parts and packaging and contact the seller. They will do their best to help resolve the issue.
How fragile is the resin, and how should I handle it?
The resin is fragile compared with metal or some plastics. Handle parts by their thicker sections, avoid twisting thin details such as the control handle, and support the model from underneath when working on it.
Do I need to wash the parts before painting?
The parts are already cleaned and UV-cured by hand, so in most cases you can prime straight away. If you prefer, you can give them a gentle wash in lukewarm water with a drop of mild detergent, rinse thoroughly, and allow them to dry fully before priming.
What primer works best on this resin?
A good-quality car or model primer works well. Apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat to avoid obscuring the crisp surface detail. Make sure the primer is suitable for plastics and allow it to cure fully before adding colour coats.
Can I use both acrylic and enamel paints on this model?
Yes. Once the model is properly primed, you can use either acrylics or enamels. If you mix the two systems (for example, enamel over acrylic), ensure the underlying coats are fully cured and test on a hidden area first.
How can I achieve a realistic industrial finish?
After priming, apply your base colour in thin coats. Then you can add weathering with subtle dry-brushing, washes, and rust tones to bring out the detail and suggest hard industrial use, especially around the tipper bucket and chassis.
When should I add ballast to the chassis and tipper body?
It is usually easiest to add lead shot or Liquid Gravity to the chassis pockets before final assembly, so you can still access the cavities. Additional ballast inside the tipper body can be added once you are happy with the running, but before final weathering.
