The kit is printed using high detail resin in the UK and the sale is for the chassis, body and sundry dress up items only. It comes unpainted and supplied without the tenshodo chassis which is shown here for information only.
The first few pictures shows the kit in grey primer so you can see how good the finish is. The driver is not included, as he has a job here in the factory and wants to stay.Â
Radiator Cap
2 x Coupling blocks
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is included in this diesel loco kit?
This listing includes nine high-detail resin parts: the chassis (designed for a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono power unit), the diesel Terrot body, control handle, hand brake, air filter, exhaust stack, radiator cap, seat and two coupling blocks. All parts are supplied unassembled (where applicable), unprimed and unpainted.
What scale and gauge is this model for?
This loco is designed for GN15 layouts. GN15 is basically narrow gauge G-scale, modelled at 1:22.5 scale on 16.5 mm gauge track. It is ideal for workyards, industrial estates and similar narrow gauge scenes.
Is the motorised chassis included?
No. The Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono motorised chassis is not included and is shown in the photos for information only. The printed chassis is designed to accept a suitable Tenshodo or Hanazono unit; the seller prefers the 31 mm wheelbase with 10.5 mm diameter wheels, but you will need to source the power unit yourself.
What material is the kit made from and where is it produced?
The kit is printed in high-detail resin in the UK. All items are cleaned and cured by hand before dispatch. Resin offers crisp detail but should be handled with care, as it can be more delicate than injection-moulded plastic.
Is the driver figure shown in the photos included?
No. The driver figure in some of the photos is not included with the kit. He is just there to show how the cab can look when detailed and crewed.
How is the kit packaged and shipped?
The kit is dispatched by Royal Mail within the UK. Packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, while the inner packing is acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.
What glue should I use to assemble the kit?
Superglue (cyanoacrylate) is recommended for assembling the resin components included in the kit. Apply small amounts and allow each joint to set before handling. Traditional plastic cement will not work on resin.
How do I add weight for better traction?
The chassis has pockets and a tray specifically designed to be filled with weight, such as lead shot or commercial products like Liquid Gravity. Add the weight gradually, test on your track and secure it with a suitable adhesive, taking care not to interfere with the motorised chassis or moving parts.
Do I need to do any surface preparation before painting?
All parts are supplied cleaned, cured and with supports removed, but some fine sanding may be required to remove any remaining support marks or to smooth minor imperfections. After sanding, gently wash the parts in mild soapy water, rinse and let them dry fully before priming.
Can I run the loco straight from the box?
No. The kit requires assembly, painting and the addition of a separate Tenshodo or Hanazono motorised chassis. Once assembled and fitted to a suitable power unit, it can be run on 16.5 mm gauge track as part of your GN15 layout.
Is this kit suitable for beginners?
The kit is straightforward as resin kits go, but it does assume some experience with small parts, superglue and basic finishing. A careful beginner with patience and good lighting can tackle it, but it is ideal for modellers who have built at least a few kits before.
How fragile are the parts and what if something arrives broken?
Resin can be quite delicate, especially finer details, so avoid dropping or twisting the parts. The seller cannot be responsible for breakages after delivery, but if something is damaged in the post, take clear photos and contact them so they can see what can be done to help.
My parts don’t seem to fit perfectly. What should I check first?
Dry-fit everything before gluing. If something is slightly tight or misaligned, check for small printing nubs, support remnants or a trace of warp. A gentle clean-up with a fine file or sanding stick usually solves minor fit issues. Make sure no stray flash is sitting in locating recesses.
The loco rocks or doesn’t sit level on the track. How can I fix this?
First, ensure your Tenshodo or Hanazono power unit is fully seated in the printed chassis and that no weight or resin part is fouling the wheelsets. Check that the chassis pockets and tray are evenly loaded with weight so one side is not heavier than the other. Adjust or redistribute the weight until the loco sits squarely and all wheels touch the rails.
The motorised chassis is tight in the printed frame. What should I do?
Do not force it. Remove the power unit and lightly sand or scrape the inside faces of the printed chassis where it is binding, checking the fit frequently. Work slowly and evenly on both sides until the chassis slides in snugly but without stress.
The surface looks slightly rough in places. Can this be improved?
Yes. Use fine wet-and-dry paper or sanding sticks (around 600–1000 grit) to gently smooth any rough areas or faint layer lines. Avoid aggressive sanding on sharp details. Once you are happy, wash the parts, let them dry and then apply primer to check the finish.
Some small detail has snapped off. Can it be repaired?
Minor breaks in resin can usually be repaired with a tiny drop of superglue. Align the broken piece carefully and hold it in place until the glue grabs. For very small or heavily stressed parts, you may choose to replace them with metal wire or scratch-built pieces for extra strength.
How should I prime the resin parts?
After any sanding and a gentle wash, use a good quality primer suitable for resin, applied in light coats. Aerosol primers or airbrushed primers both work well. The grey primer shown in the photos is an example of how the surface can look once primed, but you can use any colour that suits your painting plan.
What paints work best on this kit?
Most hobby acrylics and enamels adhere well once the model is properly cleaned and primed. Choose paints you are comfortable with for figure and vehicle work. Apply several thin coats rather than one heavy coat to preserve the fine detail.
Any tips for painting a convincing industrial diesel finish?
Industrial locos suit slightly worn, workmanlike finishes. Consider:
- A solid base colour appropriate to your chosen prototype or freelance scheme.
- Subtle dry-brushing to pick out edges and raised detail.
- Light weathering with washes and powders around the exhaust, radiator and footplate to suggest oil, soot and grime.
When should I add the small dress-up parts like the exhaust and controls?
Many modellers find it easiest to assemble the main body and chassis first, then attach the smaller details after priming or even after basic colour coats, depending on your painting style. The key is to leave enough access for your brush or airbrush while protecting delicate parts from handling.
How do I protect the finished paintwork?
Once you are happy with the paint and any weathering, seal the model with a clear varnish suitable for your paint type. A matte or satin finish usually looks best on industrial locos. Apply light coats and allow each to dry fully to avoid obscuring detail.
