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The kit is printed using high detail resin in the UK and the sale is for the chassis, beds, crate, frame and buffer plate only. It also comes unpainted and supplied without the tenshodo chassis which is shown here for information only.
The first few pictures shows the kit in grey primer so you can see how good the finish is.
FAQ – GN15 Electric Trolley Resin Kit
What exactly is included in this GN15 electric trolley kit?
The kit includes six resin printed pieces: the chassis (suitable for a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono type drive), flat bed, frame with footplate and controls, buffer plate, wood panel backing for the control frame, and a fish box that can be used as additional weight. No motor chassis, figures, track, or scenery are included.
Is this a ready-to-run model or a kit?
This is a kit that requires assembly. The parts are supplied unassembled (where applicable), unpainted, and unprimed, ready for you to build, prime, and paint to suit your own GN15 layout.
Does the kit include the Tenshodo or Hanazono power chassis?
No. The Tenshodo Spud or Hanazono chassis shown in photos is for information only and is not included in the sale. You will need to supply your own compatible power unit.
Is Pete the trolley driver figure included?
No. The driver figure shown in some photos is not included with the kit. The listing is only for the six resin printed trolley parts.
What scale or gauge is this trolley intended for?
The trolley is designed for GN15 layouts, using a chassis suitable for a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono style drive. It is intended to represent a small industrial-style electric trolley in that format.
How is the kit manufactured and finished before shipping?
The parts are 3D printed in high-detail resin in the UK. All items are cleaned and cured by hand, supplied unassembled if needed, with supports removed. Some fine sanding may still be required to achieve your preferred finish before priming.
How should I assemble the resin parts?
The parts can be assembled using superglue, which bonds resin very well. Dry-fit everything first to check alignment, then glue the chassis, bed, frame, buffer, wood panel, and fish box in your preferred configuration, allowing each joint to fully cure before handling.
Can I add weight to improve traction and balance?
Yes. The chassis has pockets designed to be filled with lead shot or products like Liquid Gravity to improve traction. The fish box also has a false crate that can be filled with lead if you want to offset the weight of a driver figure or fine-tune the balance.
Do the parts come pre-primed or painted?
No. All parts are supplied unprimed and unpainted in grey resin. The photos showing grey primer are to demonstrate the surface quality; you will need to apply your own primer and paint.
How are the items packaged and shipped?
The kit is dispatched by Royal Mail. Packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, while the inner packing is acid-free and made from approximately 99% recycled pulp fibres.
How delicate are the resin parts?
Resin can be quite delicate, especially around fine details. Normal handling is fine, but avoid dropping the parts or applying excessive force. Once the model is assembled and mounted on a chassis, it will be more robust, but still treat it as a detailed model rather than a toy.
What should I do if my kit arrives damaged in the post?
If the piece is broken during shipping, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging and contact the seller. While they cannot be responsible for breakages after safe delivery, they will see what they can do to help with postal damage.
My parts have faint marks or lines from supports. Is this normal?
Yes. The parts are printed and support marks are removed by hand, but you may still see some very fine marks or layer lines. This is normal for resin printing and will usually disappear with a light sanding and a couple of coats of primer.
The parts do not seem to fit perfectly. How can I improve the fit?
Dry-fit all parts first. If you find tight spots or slight misalignment, gently sand or file the mating surfaces until they sit comfortably. Resin is easy to work, so small adjustments with fine wet-and-dry paper or a needle file can make a big difference to the final fit.
What glue should I use if superglue is not available?
Superglue (cyanoacrylate) is recommended and works best on resin. If you do not have superglue, a good-quality two-part epoxy can also be used, but it will take longer to set. Standard plastic cement for styrene will not bond resin properly.
How can I avoid breaking delicate details during assembly?
Work on a soft surface such as a cutting mat, handle small parts with tweezers or gently between finger and thumb, and never force a part into place. If something feels tight, sand rather than push. Assemble in stages so you are not constantly gripping the same fragile areas.
The trolley seems light even with the pockets filled. What else can I do?
If you still need more weight, you can add extra lead shot or Liquid Gravity into the fish box’s false crate, and discreetly under the flat bed if there is space. Always secure weights with a suitable adhesive and keep them clear of moving parts on your power chassis.
How should I prepare the resin before priming?
Although the parts are cleaned and cured, it is good practice to give them a quick wash in lukewarm water with a tiny amount of mild detergent, then rinse and let them dry thoroughly. After that, lightly sand any remaining support marks and you are ready to prime.
What type of primer works best on this resin?
Use a primer that is suitable for resin, such as hobby acrylic or enamel primers in spray or brush form. Apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat to avoid obscuring detail. The photos of the kit in grey primer give a good indication of the finish you can expect.
Can I use standard model paints on this kit?
Yes. Once primed, you can use your usual model railway paints, whether acrylics or enamels. Thin your paints appropriately and build up colour in light coats. Dry-brushing and washes work very well on the detail of the frame, controls, and wood panel.
How can I achieve a realistic finish on the trolley and fish box?
After priming, paint base colours for metalwork and timber, then add subtle weathering. For example, you might use rusty tones on the chassis and buffer, worn wood effects on the bed and backing, and slightly grubby, stained colours on the fish box to suggest dockside use.
Should I paint the parts before or after assembly?
Many modellers prefer to paint small details such as the control handle, wood backing, and interior areas before final assembly, then touch up joints afterwards. Larger areas like the bed and frame can be assembled first and painted as a unit. Dry-fitting will help you decide what works best for your approach.
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