G Scale and GN15 wooden crates - 12 crates in 4 different designs

FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in this crate set?

The set includes 12 real wood crates in four different designs. All parts are precision laser cut from premium 1.5 mm birch plywood and supplied flat packed in a fret, ready for assembly.

What scale are these crates designed for?

These crates are designed for G-scale and GN15 layouts, making them ideal as wagon loads, station scatter, or general scenic items in those scales.

What are the crates made from?

All crates are made from premium 1.5 mm birch plywood. The material is sturdy enough for handling on a layout while still fine enough to show crisp laser-cut detail.

How are the crates packaged for delivery?

The kit is shipped from stock in card-backed envelopes to protect the fret and individual parts during transit through the postal system.

Can I use these crates for purposes other than model railways?

Yes. Although designed with G-scale/GN15 model railways in mind, the crates can be used in any compatible diorama, display, or modelling project where the size and style suit your needs.

Do the crates come pre-assembled or pre-painted?

The crates come flat packed and unpainted. You assemble them yourself and can leave them natural or finish them with wood dye or wood oil for a more realistic appearance.

The parts don’t seem to pop out of the fret easily. What should I do?

If the parts do not pop out cleanly, use a sharp modelling knife to carefully cut through the tiny tabs holding the pieces in place. Work on a cutting mat and take your time to avoid splintering the wood.

I broke a small piece while removing it from the fret. Can I still use it?

Minor breaks at the tabs can often be repaired with a tiny amount of wood or Roket glue. Hold the piece in place until the glue grabs, then gently sand any excess once dry. If a structural part is badly damaged, you may wish to contact the seller about spare parts or a replacement kit.

The parts don’t seem to fit together properly. What might be wrong?

Check that:

• All tabs and laser-cut char have been cleaned up with a light sand if needed.
• You are matching the correct pieces for each crate design.
• No parts are warped or bent from handling.

Dry-fit the pieces without glue first. Small adjustments with fine sandpaper usually solve tight fits.

The glue isn’t holding the joints firmly. Any tips?

Make sure you are using wood glue or Roket glue as recommended. Apply a small amount to clean, dry surfaces, press the parts together firmly, and allow adequate drying time. Too much glue can weaken a joint, so use a thin, even layer.

The wood has slightly warped. Can I fix it?

Very slight warping can often be corrected by gently bending the piece back while it is glued into a box shape, as the assembled crate will help keep it square. If a part is badly warped, try lightly moistening the concave side, pressing it flat under a weight between sheets of paper, and letting it dry fully before assembly.

My finished crates look uneven or out of square. How can I improve this?

When assembling, build on a flat surface and check squareness as you go. You can:

• Dry-fit all sides first to understand the order of assembly.
• Use a small engineer’s square or a straight block of wood to keep corners at 90 degrees while the glue sets.
• Wipe away excess glue quickly to avoid lumps that push joints out of alignment.

How do I assemble the crates?

Carefully remove the parts from the fret, then:

• Identify the matching pieces for one crate design.
• Dry-fit the sides and ends to check the fit and orientation.
• Apply a small amount of wood or Roket glue to the joints.
• Hold or lightly clamp until the glue has grabbed and the crate is square.

What glue should I use?

Wood glue or Roket glue is recommended. Both bond well to the 1.5 mm birch ply and are suitable for the small joints on these crates.

Do I need to sand the crates before finishing?

A light sanding is helpful. Gently sand away any small burrs from the tabs and soften sharp edges if desired. This gives a cleaner look and helps wood dye or oil soak in more evenly.

How can I finish or colour the crates?

The crates can be left natural, but they take wood dye or wood oil very well for a more genuine appearance. Apply thin coats and let each coat dry fully. You can also combine dye and a light dry-brush with acrylics for weathered effects, if you wish.

Should I finish the wood before or after assembly?

Either approach works. Many modellers:

• Lightly pre-stain or oil the parts on the fret or just after removal, then assemble once dry.
• Touch up edges and joints with a final pass of dye or oil after assembly.

Pre-finishing makes it easier to reach all surfaces, while post-finishing helps blend the joints.

Any tips for using these crates on my layout?

They work well as wagon loads, stacked on platforms, or scattered around goods yards and industrial scenes. Vary the finishes and stacking arrangements to avoid repetition and create a more natural, lived-in look.