OO9 Type 42 Wickham Inspection car - suitable for trimmed KATO 109 chassis - 009

This is a model of a Wickham Type 42 Inspection car to use on a shortened KATO 109 chassis. The chassis are easy to shorten, see the pics. Pop out the motor and then cut down the body to 42mm and refit the chassis. It then still clicks easily into place. The main body is then a drop fit onto the sub chassis to allow for painting prior to assembly. The kit is printed using high detail resin in the UK. 

The sale is for the body and the sub-chassis only, it is unpainted and without the Kato chassis which is shown for information purposes only.

The first picture is painted so you can see how good the finish is.

The kit may require some minor finishing if required before painting. Condition is New and is dispatched by Royal Mail. Our packaging is Eco friendly, the exterior packing is made in part from Recycled Materials and is fully recyclable, the interior packing materials are acid free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres. 

FAQ – Product FAQs

Wickham Type 42 Inspection Car Body & Sub-Chassis – FAQ

What exactly is included in this Wickham Type 42 kit?

The sale is for the Wickham Type 42 inspection car body and the matching sub-chassis only. The parts are supplied unassembled (where needed), unprimed and unpainted, with all resin supports removed. The KATO 109 powered chassis shown in some photos is not included and is for information only.

Which chassis is this body designed to fit?

This model is designed to be used with a shortened KATO 109 chassis. The KATO chassis needs to be cut down so that the body length is 42 mm. Once shortened, the chassis still clicks easily into place, and the main body drops onto the sub-chassis.

What material is the kit made from?

The kit is printed in high-detail resin in the UK. All items are cleaned and cured by hand before dispatch. Resin gives a crisp finish that takes primer and paint very well, but it is more delicate than injection-moulded plastic, so handle with care.

Is the model already painted or primed?

No, all pieces come unprimed and unpainted. The first photo in the listing shows a painted example so you can see the level of detail and finish you can achieve, but your kit will arrive in bare resin ready for you to prime and paint.

Does the kit need any extra finishing before painting?

We do our very best to remove support marks and clean the prints, but some minor finishing may be required. This usually means a little fine sanding or light scraping to taste before you apply primer, depending on how smooth you want the final finish to be.

How is the kit packaged and shipped?

The kit is dispatched by Royal Mail. Our packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the internal packing is acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres. Everything is packed to protect the resin parts as well as possible in transit.

The KATO 109 chassis is not clicking into place after shortening. What should I check?

First, make sure the body has been cut down to 42 mm as intended and that the cut is square. Check that no resin or plastic swarf is left on the chassis clip points. The KATO chassis should still click into place once shortened, so gently test-fit, making sure you are aligning it correctly with the sub-chassis and not forcing it at an angle.

The body does not seem to drop-fit onto the sub-chassis. How can I improve the fit?

Check for any small bits of cured resin or rough spots along the mating surfaces. A few passes with fine wet-and-dry paper or a small file on the inside edges of the body or the top of the sub-chassis usually sorts it. Aim to remove as little material as possible and test-fit frequently until the body drops into place cleanly.

I can see faint support marks on the surface. How do I deal with these?

Although we remove supports and clean the prints, some faint marks can remain. These usually disappear with gentle sanding using fine grit (e.g. 800–1200 grit) or careful scraping with a sharp hobby blade. Work slowly and keep checking the surface under good light before you move on to priming.

My part arrived damaged in the post. What should I do?

If the piece is broken in transit, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging as soon as you notice it. Then contact us with those images so we can see what has happened and do our best to make things good. We cannot be responsible for parts that are broken after safe delivery, for example from drops or mishandling during assembly.

The resin feels very delicate. How should I handle it during assembly?

Resin can be quite fragile, especially on finer details, so handle the parts by the more solid sections where possible. Avoid flexing thin areas and do not drop the parts. When test-fitting, apply gentle, even pressure rather than forcing anything into place. A soft, clean work surface will also help protect the pieces.

How do I shorten the KATO 109 chassis to 42 mm?

Pop out the motor from the KATO 109 chassis first so you do not damage it. Then carefully cut down the chassis body so the length matches 42 mm, as shown in the reference photos. Once trimmed and cleaned up, refit the chassis components. The shortened chassis should still click easily into the Wickham body and sub-chassis assembly.

In what order should I assemble and paint the model?

The main body is designed as a drop fit onto the sub-chassis so you can paint them separately. A typical sequence is:

• Test-fit the body on the sub-chassis and on the shortened KATO 109 chassis.
• Do any minor sanding or finishing work.
• Prime the body and sub-chassis separately.
• Apply your chosen paint scheme and detailing.
• Once fully dry, assemble the body onto the sub-chassis and then onto the KATO chassis.

Do I need to glue the body to the sub-chassis?

The body is intended as a drop fit onto the sub-chassis, which allows easy painting and later access if needed. Some modellers prefer to leave it as a friction fit; others add a tiny spot of suitable adhesive once everything is painted and tested. If you do glue, use only a small amount and avoid getting adhesive on the KATO chassis or moving parts.

What kind of preparation should I do before priming?

Even though the parts are cleaned and cured by hand, it is good practice to:

• Inspect the surfaces for any remaining support marks and gently sand if needed.
• Rinse the parts lightly and let them dry, if you wish, to remove any dust from sanding.
• Handle the parts by the edges to avoid fingerprints on the surfaces you will prime.

Any tips for getting a smooth paint finish on this resin body?

A smooth finish starts with careful preparation. Make sure any support marks are tidied up and the surface is dust-free. Apply a suitable primer in light coats to bring out the detail and reveal any areas that need a bit more sanding. After that, build up your colour coats in thin layers rather than one heavy coat. Allow each layer to dry fully before handling or masking, and you will get a crisp, clean result that shows off the Wickham’s detail.