OO9/009 100 HP Sentinel Steam (Fry) Locomotive fits the Kato chassis 11-109

The Fry 100HP Sentinel locomotive were built around 1928. These  remarkable locomotives served faithfully from its inception in 1928 until approximately 1958 and longer in other countries. The vertical engine is concealed under a distinctive cylindrical cover at the front of the locomotive.

Notable for its large water tank, extending nearly the entire width of the locomotive these Sentinels were renowned for their running time and some were capable of operating for an impressive 15+ hourse without requiring a refill. The central location of the water tank also ensured consistent weight distribution between the two sets of wheels. The vertical steam boiler in the cab and the engine in the front powered the front axle which was connected by a chain to the rear axle, alleviating the conventional coupling rods. 

The kit chassis is designed in such a way to clip easily onto a Kato 11-109 motor  bogie chassis. The Kato chassis  can be carefully removed if you want to use it again on something else. 

The body is also a simple drop fit onto the chassis to which allows for painting prior to assembly. You can either leave the body loose, or use a small amount of white PVA glue to hold it in place. 
The kit comes with a detailed boiler and 3d scanned driver and mate. 

Brass rodding is supplied for the control bars on both sides, the water tank handle and importantly the cab roof supports. Insert these and glue in place with superglue as one of the first jobs as it helps with the rigidity of the cab. 

In addition two lamps are provided that can be fitted as well as precision last cut porthole windows. These should be preferably glued in with glue and glaze so as not to leave any marks. 

This is a great easy to build kit, but still very highly detailed easily painted. We recommend either standard car primer or Tamiya primer as a base coat and finished with acrylic paints

The parts are supplied grey but may vary slightly in tone to the pictures, the lamps are however white. It comes with all the necessary brass rod. Please note that this is an unpainted kit, the pictures shown painted and with transfers are for information purposes only. The kit also doesn't come with the Kato 109 motor bogie, that you need to supply. 

Your kit will contain:
1x Body
1x Chassis that clips onto a Kato 109
1x Interior Boiler piece
2x Lamps
2x 3d Scanned figures
2x Portholes
1x Brass rod for Cab supports
1x Brass rod for side control rods and tank handle
2x couplings

We print our own models here in the UK using high detail resin. The sale is for the kit chassis, body, driver , cab interior, it is unpainted. The pictures showing the Kato chassis are for information purposes only, you will need supply one. See our shop for suitable motor chassis.

Finishing: All items are cleaned and cured by hand. They are unassembled and ready for you to prime and paint. We do our very best to remove support marks but some fine sanding may be required. All pieces and parts come unprimed and unpainted with all supports removed. Please do bear in mind that resin can be quite delicate so try to avoid dropping your parts! Sadly, we can't be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images and we will of course see what we can do to help.

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FAQ – Product FAQs

Fry 100HP Sentinel Locomotive Kit – FAQ

What exactly is included in the Fry 100HP Sentinel locomotive kit?

Your kit includes: 1x body, 1x chassis that clips onto a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis, 1x interior boiler piece, 2x lamps, 2x 3D scanned figures (driver and mate), 2x porthole windows, 1x brass rod for cab supports, 1x brass rod for the side control rods and water tank handle, and 2x couplings. All parts are supplied unpainted.

Is the Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis included with this kit?

No, the Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis is not included. The kit is designed to clip onto a Kato 11-109 chassis, which you will need to supply separately.

What material are the parts made from, and where are they produced?

The parts are printed in high-detail resin and are produced in the UK. All items are cleaned and cured by hand before being packed for you to assemble, prime, and paint.

What colour are the parts when they arrive?

The resin parts are supplied in grey, and the lamps are supplied in white. The exact tone of the grey may vary slightly from any pictures shown.

Is this kit suitable for beginners?

The kit is designed to be an easy-to-build yet highly detailed model. The chassis clips onto the Kato 11-109, and the body is a simple drop fit. Some care is needed with the resin parts and brass rods, but patient beginners with basic modelling skills should be comfortable with it.

Is the kit based on a real locomotive?

Yes. It represents the Fry 100HP Sentinel locomotives built around 1928, known for their large central water tank, vertical steam boiler in the cab, and vertical engine under the cylindrical front cover. The prototype locomotives worked from about 1928 to 1958 and longer in some countries.

My kit arrived with a broken part. What should I do?

If a part has been broken in the post, please take clear photos of the damage and packaging and contact the seller. They will review the images and see what can be done to help. Breakages after delivery (for example from dropping the model) cannot be covered.

The chassis will not clip onto my Kato 11-109. How can I fix this?

First, check that you are using the correct Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis. Make sure there are no leftover sprues or flash on the kit chassis or the Kato unit. A very light clean-up of any tiny printing remnants with a fine file or sanding stick can help. Do not force the parts together; instead, ease them gradually until the clip fit engages.

The body does not sit properly on the chassis. What should I check?

Ensure that the interior boiler piece and any brass rods are fully seated and not fouling the inside of the body or chassis. Check for small bits of resin or dust inside the body shell and on the chassis top. A gentle test fit, then light sanding of any high spots, usually resolves the issue.

My porthole windows do not seem to fit correctly.

Check that the porthole openings in the cab are free of any tiny printing remnants. If needed, very lightly clean the openings with a fine file. The portholes should be fitted carefully and secured with a “glue and glaze” type product to avoid marks on the clear surfaces.

The brass rods are difficult to insert. How can I make this easier?

Dry-fit the brass rods first to identify any tight holes. If necessary, gently open the holes with a fine drill bit or reamer by hand. Insert the rods straight, without twisting force, then fix them with a small amount of superglue once you are happy with the alignment.

The resin feels delicate. How should I handle it during assembly?

Resin can be quite delicate, so handle parts by the thicker sections where possible, and work over a soft surface such as a cutting mat. Avoid dropping parts, and do not use excessive force when clipping or pushing components together.

How should I assemble the body and chassis in relation to painting?

The body is a simple drop fit onto the chassis, which makes painting easier. You can paint the body and chassis separately, then drop the body onto the chassis once everything is dry. You may leave the body loose or secure it with a small amount of white PVA glue so it can be removed later if needed.

When should I fit the brass rods and cab roof supports?

It is recommended to insert and glue the brass rods for the cab roof supports, side control bars, and water tank handle as one of the first jobs. Fix them with superglue. This helps to stiffen the cab and makes the whole structure more rigid during the rest of the build.

How do I attach the lamps and porthole windows?

The two lamps can be fitted to the body once you have test-fitted their positions. The porthole windows should be glued in with a “glue and glaze” type adhesive to avoid fogging or marking the clear parts. Apply the adhesive sparingly around the edges and allow it to dry fully before handling.

What primer and paints do you recommend?

A standard car primer or Tamiya primer works well as a base coat on the resin. Once primed, the model can be finished with acrylic paints. Always apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat to preserve the fine detail.

Do I need to do any sanding or surface preparation before painting?

All items are cleaned, cured, and supplied with supports removed, but some fine sanding may still be required to remove any remaining support marks or slight imperfections. Use fine-grit sanding sticks or paper and take care not to damage small details.