OO Gauge (OO9) Edwardian Park or Promenade Shelter based on Eastbourne Shelter

This is  a replica of an edwardian style promenade shelter in Eastbourne. Will work great for a seaside scene or painted in darker colours would work well as a municipal or park shelter. The model also comes with pre-cut glazing. Three panes slide into the middle of the model and the other pieces are used to form the roof glazing. It comes as an unpainted kit (diorama model shown only for scale and reference and is not included) and will need some simple assembly. Superglue can be used to fix the roof finials after it is all painted and the glazing inserted. Also include are two pedestrians, one with a camera. 

This is a really unique model and not something that is generally available and would be very complicated to scratch build. 

FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions – Edwardian Promenade Shelter Kit

What exactly is included in the kit?

The kit includes the unpainted promenade shelter parts, pre-cut glazing for the sides and roof, roof finials (decorative ridge parts), and two pedestrian figures, one of whom is holding a camera. All pieces come unassembled, unprimed, and unpainted, with supports removed.

Is the diorama shown in photos included?

No, any diorama or scenic base shown in photos is for scale and reference only and is not included. You will receive the shelter kit and the two pedestrian figures.

Is this model suitable for seaside or park layouts?

Yes. The shelter is based on an Edwardian promenade shelter in Eastbourne, so it fits perfectly in seaside scenes. Painted in darker or more neutral colours, it also works very well as a municipal or park shelter.

Does the kit come painted or primed?

No, all parts come unprimed and unpainted. You will need to prime and paint the model yourself, which allows you to match your existing layout or create your own colour scheme.

How difficult is the kit to assemble?

Assembly is designed to be simple. The glazing slides into place, and superglue can be used for the roof panels and decorative ridge. Some basic modelling experience is helpful, but this is a straightforward build for most hobbyists.

Why is this model described as unique?

This shelter is a replica of a specific Edwardian structure and is not generally available as a standard kit. It would be quite complicated to scratch build, so this kit provides a convenient way to add a distinctive feature to your layout.

Do I need any special tools or materials to build the kit?

You will need basic modelling tools such as a hobby knife, fine sandpaper or sanding sticks, and tweezers. For assembly and finishing, you will need primer, paints, and superglue (cyanoacrylate) for attaching the roof panels and decorative ridge.

What type of glue should I use?

Superglue (cyanoacrylate) is recommended, especially for fixing the roof finials and decorative ridge after painting and glazing. Use small amounts and allow each joint to set before moving on to the next.

Is the resin fragile?

Yes, resin can be quite delicate. The parts are cleaned and cured by hand, but you should handle them carefully and avoid dropping them. Thin sections and decorative details are particularly vulnerable to impact.

Are the pedestrian figures separate pieces?

Yes, the two pedestrians are supplied as separate pieces. You can paint and position them as you wish within your scene, or use them elsewhere on your layout if preferred.

Can I modify or kitbash this shelter?

Many modellers do like to modify their kits. You can repaint, weather, or slightly alter the shelter to suit your layout. Just bear in mind that resin is delicate, so any cutting or heavy modification should be done carefully.

What should I do if a part arrives damaged?

If a piece is broken in the post, please take clear photos of the damage and contact the seller. They will do their best to help once they can see what has happened. Damage caused after delivery (for example, from dropping the model) cannot be covered.

Some parts don’t seem to fit perfectly. What can I do?

Minor adjustment is normal with resin kits. You can:

• Dry-fit parts first to see where adjustments are needed.
• Use fine sandpaper or a file to gently refine contact surfaces.
• Ensure any primer or paint build-up on joints is removed before final gluing.

The glazing doesn’t slide in smoothly. How do I fix this?

Check the channels where the glazing slides in and gently clean them:

• Remove any tiny resin nibs or paint overspray with a sharp hobby knife.
• Lightly sand tight spots, taking care not to over-remove material.
• Test-fit the glazing frequently until it slides in snugly but without force.

My roof finials or decorative ridge won’t stay in place.

Ensure both the contact points and the parts themselves are clean and fully painted and varnished before gluing. Use a small drop of fresh superglue, hold the part in place until it grabs, and allow full curing time before handling the model again.

There are faint marks where supports were removed. Is this normal?

Yes. All items are cleaned and cured by hand, and support marks are minimised, but some fine sanding may still be required. Use very fine sandpaper or polishing sticks and work slowly to preserve surface detail.

I accidentally broke a part while handling it. Can this be repaired?

Often, yes. For clean breaks, carefully align the pieces and rejoin them with a tiny amount of superglue. For very fine parts, you may want to reinforce the joint with a small pin or by adding a little extra glue on the underside where it won’t be seen.

Do I need to wash the parts before priming?

It is good practice to give resin parts a gentle wash in lukewarm water with a drop of mild detergent, then rinse and let them dry completely. This helps remove any remaining residue and improves primer adhesion.

What kind of primer and paint should I use?

Most hobby acrylic or enamel primers and paints for miniatures or models will work well on resin. Use a primer suitable for plastic or resin, applied in thin coats, followed by your chosen colours. Always allow each layer to dry fully before adding the next.

How do I paint and fit the glazing and glazing bars?

First, remove the double-sided protective film from the glazing. Paint the glazing bars separately, let them dry completely, then glue the painted bars onto the clear glazing panels. Once assembled, these glazed panels can be fixed to the already painted shelter.

When should I install the glazing during assembly?

It is usually easiest to paint the main shelter structure first, then slide in the glazing panes once the paint is fully dry. After that, you can add the painted roof glazing and finally attach the roof finials and decorative ridge with superglue.

How can I achieve a seaside or park look with paint?

For a seaside feel, use lighter, brighter colours and consider gentle weathering to suggest salt and sun exposure. For a municipal or park shelter, darker greens, browns, or muted tones work well. A light dry-brush and subtle washes help bring out the details.

Do the figures need any special preparation before painting?

Like the shelter, the figures are unprimed. Give them a quick inspection for any tiny mould lines, gently sand if needed, then prime them. Once primed, you can paint them with your usual miniature paints to match your layout’s era and style.