Lamp hut with glazing - O Gauge/O-16.5 based on Buckfastleigh building

This kit consists of a typical lamp hut and is based on the one at Buckfastleigh operated by the South Devon Railway. Includes laser cut glazing to fit into the window recess from inside.

The footprint of the building is is 66mm x 43mm and 58mm high.  
 
 Lamp huts were small structures found on steam railways used to store and maintain the lamps and lanterns used for signaling and illumination purposes. In the early days of steam railways, signal lamps were manually operated by railway workers who would stand on the trackside and wave a colored flag or lantern to indicate to the train driver what to do, such as whether to stop or proceed with caution.  

As railways became more complex, signaling systems became more sophisticated, and the number and types of lamps required increased. Lamp huts were built to house and protect those lamps and lanterns from the elements and to make it easier for workers to access and maintain them.

The huts were typically small, wooden buildings located near to the railway tracks, and contained shelves or racks to store the different types of lamps and lanterns. The lamps would be filled with oil or gas and checked regularly to ensure they were in good working order.

Signal lamps and lanterns were crucial for safe railway operation, especially at night when visibility was limited. They were used to signal to train drivers when to stop, slow down, or proceed with caution, as well as to warn of any obstacles or hazards on the track ahead. Lamp huts played a vital role in maintaining the signaling equipment and ensuring that the railway ran safely and smoothly.

 When painted this is a nice addition to any layout, using normal car primer and acrylic paints. The pictures show the painted versions which are not included.  

The model is shipped from stock and is ready to paint.

We print and make our own models here in the UK using high detail resin. The sale is for the unpainted building and laser cut glazing.
 
Finishing: All items are cleaned and cured by hand. They are unassembled and ready for you to prime and paint. We do our very best to remove support marks but some fine sanding may be required. All pieces and parts come unprimed and unpainted with all supports removed. Please do bear in mind that resin can be quite delicate so try to avoid dropping your parts! Sadly, we can't be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images and we will of course see what we can do to help. 

FAQ – Product FAQs

Lamp Hut Kit – Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in this lamp hut kit?

The kit includes a high-detail resin model of the lamp hut and laser cut glazing designed to fit into the window recess from the inside. The building is supplied unassembled, unprimed and unpainted, with all printing supports removed.

What are the dimensions of the finished lamp hut?

The footprint of the building is approximately 66mm x 43mm, and the model stands about 58mm high once assembled.

Is this model based on a real railway structure?

Yes. The lamp hut is based on the prototype at Buckfastleigh, operated by the South Devon Railway, making it a typical and authentic small steam-era railway structure.

What material is the lamp hut made from?

The hut is printed in high detail resin. Each piece is cleaned and cured by hand here in the UK before being packed and shipped.

Is the model supplied painted or with any scenic details?

No. The sale is for the unpainted building and laser cut glazing only. The painted versions shown in any photos are for illustration and are not included.

Is this suitable for any particular railway era or region?

Lamp huts like this were common on steam railways and are suitable for layouts representing the steam era. While based on a South Devon Railway example, similar huts appeared across many British railways.

My model arrived; what should I check before starting?

First, carefully inspect the resin parts and glazing for transit damage. Check that all pieces are present and that support marks, if any, are minimal. If something appears broken from the post, take clear photos and contact us so we can see what we can do to help.

The resin looks slightly rough in places. Is that normal?

Some very fine support marks may remain even though we remove supports and clean the model by hand. This is normal for resin printing and can usually be smoothed with light sanding before priming.

What should I do if a part is broken on arrival?

If a piece has clearly been damaged in the post, please provide clear images of the damage and the packaging. We will review the photos and do our best to help you resolve the issue.

I dropped a part and it snapped. Can this be replaced?

Resin is delicate and can break if dropped or handled roughly. We cannot be held responsible for breakages after delivery, but you are welcome to contact us to discuss options if you need a replacement part.

The glazing doesn’t seem to fit the window recess. What can I do?

The laser cut glazing is designed to fit from the inside of the hut. If it feels tight, dry-fit it first and gently check for any small printing or paint build-up in the recess. Lightly trimming paint or very carefully easing the opening with fine abrasive can help, but avoid forcing the glazing into place.

Do I need to wash the resin parts before painting?

The parts are already cleaned and cured by hand, so additional washing is usually not necessary. However, if you prefer, you can gently wipe the pieces with a soft cloth before priming to remove any dust from handling or sanding.

How should I assemble the lamp hut?

Dry-fit everything first to understand how the parts go together. Then:

• Lightly sand any remaining support marks or small imperfections.
• Test-fit the glazing from the inside of the window recess.
• Use a suitable model adhesive for resin parts, applying sparingly to avoid squeeze-out onto visible surfaces.
• Allow glue to fully cure before priming and painting.

When should I install the laser cut glazing?

For the neatest finish, it is usually best to paint the hut first, then fit the glazing from the inside once the paint is fully dry. This helps keep the glazing clear of primer and paint overspray.

What primer and paints should I use?

Normal car primer works very well on this resin, followed by acrylic paints for colour. Apply primer in light coats to avoid obscuring the fine detail, then build up your acrylic colours in thin layers.

Do I need to sand the model before painting?

Only where necessary. We do our very best to remove support marks, but some fine sanding may be required in small areas. Use fine-grit abrasive and take care not to soften sharp edges or lose surface detail.

Any tips for achieving a realistic finish on the hut?

Think about how a real lamp hut weathers over time:

• Use slightly different tones of your main colour to suggest sun-fading on the roof and walls.
• Add subtle weathering with thin acrylic washes to pick out planks, panels, and recesses.
• Dry-brush lighter shades on edges to highlight detail.
• Finish with a matt or satin varnish to protect your paintwork.