OO9/009 WG Bagnall Rye and Camber Steam Locomotive fits the Kato chassis 11-109

Here is a steam loco taking inspiration from the Rye and Camber Tramway Locos built by W. G. Bagnall Ltd for the Tramway. The kit chassis is designed in such a way to clip easily onto a Kato 11-109 motor  bogie chassis. The Kato chassis  can be carefully removed if you want to use it again on something else. 

The body is also a simple drop fit onto the chassis to allow for painting prior to assembly. We have also added an Interior piece that can be painted seperately that depicts the interior along with a 3d scanned driver. This is a great easy to build kit, and can be painted so that it will look really nice on your layout. We recommend either standard car primer or Tamiya primer as a base coat and finished with acrylic paints

We print our own models here in the UK using high detail resin. The sale is for the kit chassis, body, driver , cab interior, it is unpainted. The pictures showing the Kato chassis are for information purposes only, you will need supply one. See our shop for suitable motor chassis.

Finishing: All items are cleaned and cured by hand. They are unassembled and ready for you to prime and paint. We do our very best to remove support marks but some fine sanding may be required. All pieces and parts come unprimed and unpainted with all supports removed. Please do bear in mind that resin can be quite delicate so try to avoid dropping your parts! Sadly, we can't be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images and we will of course see what we can do to help.

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FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly do I get with this kit?

The kit includes a resin-printed body shell, kit chassis, cab interior piece and a 3D-scanned driver figure. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed and unpainted, with supports removed and basic cleanup done by us. The Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis is not included and must be supplied separately.

What prototype is this loco based on?

This model takes inspiration from the steam locomotives built by W. G. Bagnall Ltd for the Rye and Camber Tramway. It is not an exact scale copy, but a freelance design in that style, intended for narrow gauge layouts such as OO9.

What scale or gauge is this suitable for?

The kit is designed to clip onto a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis, which is commonly used for OO9 and similar narrow gauge model railway projects. If you already use Kato 11-109-based stock on your layout, this loco should sit nicely alongside it.

Is the Kato 11-109 motor chassis easy to fit?

Yes. The kit chassis is designed to clip easily onto a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis. The Kato chassis can also be carefully removed later if you want to re-use it under another model, so you are not permanently committing the motor unit to this loco.

What material are the parts made from?

All parts are 3D printed by us in the UK using high-detail resin. The pieces are cleaned and UV-cured by hand before packing. Resin gives very crisp detail but is more delicate than injection-moulded plastic, so handle with care and avoid dropping the parts.

Is the model ready-to-run out of the box?

No. This is a kit. You will need to supply and fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis, assemble the resin parts, and carry out priming and painting yourself. The photos showing a complete loco are for information and inspiration only.

How should I prepare the parts before painting?

All items are cleaned and cured by hand, and supports are removed. Before painting, we recommend a light inspection and, if needed, gentle sanding of any remaining support marks. Wash the parts in mild soapy water, rinse and let them dry fully before priming.

What primer do you recommend?

We recommend either standard car primer (from an automotive range) or Tamiya primer as a base coat. Both give a good key on resin and help your top coats of paint adhere well and show the detail clearly.

What type of paint should I use?

Acrylic paints work very well over the recommended primers. They are easy to thin, dry quickly and are kinder to resin than some hot solvent-based paints. You can brush paint or airbrush, depending on your preference and equipment.

Can I paint the parts before assembly?

Yes, and the kit is designed with that in mind. The body is a simple drop fit onto the chassis, and the interior piece and driver can be painted separately. Many modellers find it easier to paint the body, interior and figure before final assembly for a cleaner finish.

Do I need any special tools or glue?

You will need basic modelling tools such as a sharp craft knife, fine files or sanding sticks, and a good quality plastic or cyanoacrylate (super) glue suitable for resin. No soldering is required for the resin parts, though you may need small screwdrivers or similar tools when fitting the Kato 11-109 chassis.

How durable is the finished model?

Resin models are perfectly suitable for normal layout use, but they are more brittle than traditional plastic kits. Once assembled and painted, the loco will be robust enough for careful handling and operation, but it is best to avoid dropping it or applying heavy pressure to fine details.

The Kato 11-109 chassis feels tight when clipping into the kit chassis. What should I do?

If the fit feels too tight, do not force it. Remove the chassis and carefully check for any small printing ridges or leftover support marks inside the kit chassis. Lightly sand or scrape these areas until the Kato unit clips in firmly but without excessive force.

The body does not sit level on the chassis. How can I fix this?

First, make sure there are no bits of flash, support nubs or stray glue on the top of the chassis or inside the body shell. Gently test-fit without glue and look for any high spots. Carefully sand or file these until the body drops on squarely and sits level all round.

The loco runs, but it is noisy or jerky. Is this a kit issue?

Running quality is determined mainly by the Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis. Check that the chassis runs smoothly on its own before fitting the body. If it is noisy or jerky, inspect the wheels for dirt, ensure they are correctly gauged, and confirm that nothing is fouling the mechanism once the body is fitted.

My resin part arrived with a small bend or warp. Can I correct it?

Minor warps can often be corrected by gently warming the part in hand-hot (not boiling) water, carefully straightening it, and then cooling it under cold water to set the shape. Always bend slowly and cautiously to avoid snapping delicate details.

A part arrived broken in the post. What should I do?

If something has clearly been damaged in transit, please take clear photos of the broken part and the packaging, and contact us. While we cannot be responsible for breakages after delivery, we will of course see what we can do to help if the damage occurred in the post.

How do I fit the cab interior and driver?

Test-fit the cab interior piece inside the body first, adjusting with light sanding if needed. Once you are happy with the fit, paint the interior and driver separately. When the paint is fully dry, glue the driver in place on the interior piece, then glue the whole interior assembly into the body, taking care not to foul the Kato chassis.

In what order should I assemble and paint everything?

A typical sequence is:

• Clean and lightly sand the resin parts.
• Test-fit the Kato 11-109 chassis, body and interior without glue.
• Prime the body, interior and driver with car or Tamiya primer.
• Paint the interior and driver, then the body.
• Glue the interior and driver into the body.
• Finally, clip the body onto the Kato chassis.

How can I get a really smooth paint finish on the body?

After priming, lightly sand the surface with very fine abrasive (e.g. 800–1200 grit) to knock back any roughness. Apply several thin coats of acrylic paint rather than one thick coat, allowing each to dry fully. If you are comfortable with an airbrush, it can give a particularly smooth result on the large flat panels.

Do I need to fill any gaps before painting?

Most prints will not need filler, but if you see small seams or imperfections after priming, you can use a fine modelling putty or liquid filler. Apply sparingly, sand smooth when cured, and then re-prime those areas before applying your main colours.

Can I weather the loco to look more realistic?

Yes. Once your main colours and any varnish coats are fully dry, you can use acrylic washes, dry-brushing or weathering powders to add soot, rust and general grime. Work in light layers so you can build up the effect gradually and keep the underlying detail visible.