009 Armstrong Whitworth Diesel Narrow Gauge Loco for KATO 109 - OO9

This is a OO9 Diesel loco based around the Armstrong Whitworth Diesel Electric Loco and requires a KATO 109 (11-109) chassis which easily clips into place into the chassis.

These were first built around the 1930's as an answer to Steam shunters of the time. Only a few prototypes were built and never really achieved the sales expected. 

The main body is a drop fit onto the sub-chassis and allows for painting prior to assembly. In addition there is a separate control unit and two figures. These once painted can be glued in place (with superglue). As space is tight you might want to snip one of their feet off, you'll see this when you dry assemble due to the Kato chassis intruding into the cab.

Supplied as well is brass rod for the cab handles which have holes ready to fit. Also supplied is glazing for the windows and two couplings to replace the Arnold couplings on a Kato chassis that work with the PECO narrow gauge couplers. 

The kit is printed using high detail resin in the UK. The kit also comes with the two 3D scanned figure and glazing for the windows.

The sale is for the body, sub-chassis, glazing and two realistic 3d scanned figures based on real people. It is unpainted and supplied without the KATO chassis, the pictures of which are shown for information only. Likewise in the video, the diorama case, track and wagons are not included. See our listing for the diorama case as that is something we supply

May require some minor finishing if required before painting. Condition is New. Our packaging is Eco friendly, the exterior packing is made in part from Recycled Materials and is fully recyclable, the interior packing materials are acid free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.

Finishing: All items are cleaned and cured by hand. They are unassembled and ready for you to prime and paint.

We do our very best to remove support marks but some fine sanding may be required.

Please do bear in mind that resin can be quite delicate so try to avoid dropping your parts! Sadly, we cant be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images and we will see what we can do to help to make things good.

FAQ – Product FAQs

OO9 Diesel Loco Kit – Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in this OO9 diesel loco kit?

The sale is for the resin body, sub-chassis, glazing for the windows, brass rod for cab handles, two replacement couplings compatible with PECO narrow gauge couplers, and two realistic 3D scanned figures based on real people. All parts are unpainted and supplied unassembled.

Is the KATO chassis included with the kit?

No, the KATO 109 (11-109) chassis is not included. It is shown in photos and videos for information only and must be purchased separately.

What prototype is this model based on?

This is a OO9 diesel loco based around the Armstrong Whitworth Diesel Electric Loco, first built around the 1930s as an alternative to steam shunters. Only a few prototypes were made and they did not achieve the sales originally expected.

What scale and gauge is this model?

The model is OO9 narrow gauge. It is designed to use the KATO 109 (11-109) chassis, which clips easily into the printed sub-chassis.

How is the kit produced and where is it made?

The kit is printed in high-detail resin in the UK. All items are cleaned and cured by hand, then supplied unassembled and ready for you to prime and paint.

Is the packaging environmentally friendly?

Yes. The exterior packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable. The interior packing materials are acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.

My KATO 109 (11-109) chassis feels tight or won’t clip in – what should I do?

First, check that there are no stray resin nibs or support remnants inside the sub-chassis. A light clean-up with a fine file or sanding stick usually helps. Test-fit the chassis gently and do not force it; it should clip into place with firm but controlled pressure.

The body doesn’t seem to sit properly on the sub-chassis. How can I fix this?

The main body is designed as a drop fit onto the sub-chassis. If it rocks or sits high, look for any small printing supports or paint build-up on the mating surfaces and carefully sand them flat. Dry-assemble without glue until the fit is smooth and level.

One of the resin parts arrived damaged. What should I do?

If the piece appears to have been broken in the post, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging. Contact the seller with these images so they can see what they can do to help make things good. Breakages after safe delivery cannot be covered.

The surface shows faint support marks – is this normal?

Yes, although every effort is made to remove support marks during cleaning, some fine sanding may still be required. Use very fine abrasive paper or sanding sticks and work gently to preserve the surface detail.

The resin feels delicate – how should I handle it?

Resin can be quite delicate, so avoid dropping or twisting parts. Handle the body and small details by the thicker sections, and support pieces with two hands when possible. Take extra care during test fitting and when pressing the chassis into place.

How should I assemble the main body and sub-chassis?

Begin by dry-assembling: clip the KATO 109 (11-109) chassis into the sub-chassis, then drop-fit the main body onto it. Check alignment and clearance around the cab and bonnet. Once you are happy with the fit and have completed painting, you can secure parts with a small amount of suitable adhesive if desired.

How do I fit the two figures and the separate control unit?

Paint the figures and the control unit before installation. Dry-assemble them in the cab to check clearances, as the KATO chassis intrudes into the cab space. When satisfied, glue them in place using a small amount of superglue.

What if the figures don’t quite fit because of the chassis?

Space in the cab is tight. During dry assembly you may find that one figure’s foot fouls the KATO chassis. In that case, you may wish to carefully snip off one foot so the figure sits naturally without forcing the parts.

How do I install the brass cab handles?

The cab has pre-formed holes ready to accept the supplied brass rod. Cut the rod to length, test-fit each piece, then fix in place with a tiny spot of superglue. It is usually easier to fit these after painting the body but before final weathering.

How should I fit the window glazing?

Cut the supplied glazing to size if required, then test-fit each piece from the inside. Use a clear, non-fogging adhesive sparingly around the edges. Avoid superglue on glazing, as fumes can fog clear parts.

How do I replace the Arnold couplings on the KATO chassis?

The kit includes two couplings designed to replace the standard Arnold couplings on the KATO chassis and work with PECO narrow gauge couplers. Remove the original couplings carefully, then fit the supplied replacements, checking that they are level and at the correct height before final tightening or gluing.

Do I need to do any preparation before painting?

All items are cleaned and cured by hand, but a light wash in mild soapy water followed by a thorough rinse and dry is always good practice. Inspect for any minor support marks and gently sand if needed before priming.

What type of paint and primer should I use on the resin parts?

Use a primer suitable for resin to give your paints a good key. Once primed, most hobby acrylics or enamels will work well. Always apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat to preserve the fine detail.

Can I paint the body separately from the chassis?

Yes, the main body is designed as a drop fit onto the sub-chassis specifically to allow painting prior to final assembly. Many modellers paint the body, sub-chassis, figures, and small details separately, then bring everything together at the end.

Do I need to fill or smooth the surfaces before painting?

Most parts will be ready to prime straight away, but you may find the odd fine support mark or tiny imperfection. These can be dealt with using gentle sanding and, if necessary, a small amount of fine model filler before applying primer.