OO9 (OO Scale) Beddgelert inspired water tower

This is a superb looking water tower inspired by the water tower at Beddgelert on the Welsh Highland Heritage railway. Built on a concrete base, the steel water sits on top along with a filling pipe. It comes in 3 parts so you can model it pre-restoration without the tank in place :) Stands approx 60mm tall

FAQ – Product FAQs

What exactly do I get with this Beddgelert water tower kit?

You receive three separate grey resin-printed pieces: one Beddgelert water tank, one concrete-style base, and one water pipe. These arrive unassembled, unprimed, and unpainted, with all print supports removed, ready for you to glue, prime, and paint.

How tall is the finished water tower?

The assembled water tower stands at approximately 60 mm tall, making it ideal as a compact scenic feature on many model railway layouts.

Is this an exact model of the real Beddgelert water tower?

The model is inspired by the water tower at Beddgelert on the Welsh Highland Heritage Railway. It captures the overall look and feel, including the concrete base, steel tank, and filling pipe, but is not advertised as a fully exact scale copy.

Does the kit come painted or weathered?

No, the kit is supplied unpainted and unprimed in grey resin. Any colours, weathering, or detailing you see in photographs are for display purposes only and are not included with the product.

Is the train and the figures in the photos included?

No, the train and figures shown in any illustrative photos are not included. They are used purely for display to show how the water tower might look on a finished layout.

Can I model the tower without the tank, as if it’s under restoration?

Yes. Because the kit comes in three separate parts (base, tank, and pipe), you can choose to leave the tank off and model the structure pre-restoration or mid-maintenance if you prefer.

What material is the kit made from?

The parts are 3D printed in resin. All items are cleaned and cured by hand before being packed, so they are ready for you to assemble, prime, and paint.

How durable is the resin?

The resin is sturdy enough for normal layout use but can be quite delicate if dropped or crushed. Fine details in particular can be vulnerable, so it’s best to handle the pieces carefully during assembly and when placing them on the layout.

Are support marks completely removed?

All supports are removed during finishing, and we do our very best to smooth away marks. However, you may still find the odd faint line or tiny nub where a support once was. A little fine sanding will usually take care of these before priming.

Is any glue included with the kit?

No glue is included. Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is recommended and works very well for bonding the resin parts together.

Is this suitable for beginners?

Yes, it’s a straightforward little project. As long as you’re comfortable using super glue and basic tools like a fine file or sandpaper, you should have no trouble. It’s a nice introduction to resin scenery pieces and weathering techniques.

What should I do if the model arrives broken?

If your water tower is damaged in the post, please take clear photographs of the damage and contact us. While we can’t be responsible for breakages after delivery, we will always see what we can do to help with postal damage.

One of the parts looks slightly warped or misaligned. How can I fix it?

Mild warping can sometimes be eased by very gently warming the part (for example, with warm—not boiling—water) and carefully straightening it, then allowing it to cool in the corrected position. Always test on a small area first and avoid excessive heat to prevent damage.

The parts don’t seem to sit flat on my layout. Any tips?

Check that the underside of the base is free of any small support nubs or bumps. Lightly sand the bottom on a flat surface with fine sandpaper until it sits square. If your baseboard is slightly uneven, a thin smear of filler or PVA under the base can help bed it into the scenery.

My super glue isn’t bonding well to the resin. What can I do?

First, ensure the contact surfaces are clean and dry—wipe them lightly with a lint-free cloth. A quick scuff with very fine sandpaper (e.g. 800–1000 grit) can give the glue a better “key.” Apply a small amount of fresh super glue and hold the parts firmly together until set.

I can see faint layer lines or print marks. How do I tidy them up?

Use fine wet-and-dry paper or small sanding sticks to gently smooth the affected areas, taking care not to lose sharp detail. Once sanded, rinse or wipe away dust, let the part dry thoroughly, then apply your primer, which will also help hide minor imperfections.

The tower feels a bit fragile. How can I protect it on the layout?

Mount the base securely to your scenery—either directly to the board or onto a small scenic “pad” of card or foam. Once glued down, the tower is less likely to be knocked over. When working around it, handle the base rather than the pipe or tank to avoid stressing the finer parts.

How do I assemble the three parts?

Dry-fit everything first so you know how the pieces line up. Typically you will: place the base on a flat surface, glue the tank centrally on top of the base, then attach the water pipe in its intended position. Allow each joint to set fully before moving on to the next.

Do I need to wash the parts before painting?

The parts are already cleaned and cured by hand, but it’s still good practice to give them a quick rinse in mild soapy water, then rinse with clean water and let them dry completely. This removes any remaining dust or handling oils before priming.

What kind of primer should I use on the resin?

Any hobby primer that is suitable for plastic or resin miniatures will work well. A thin, even coat—either brush-on or spray—will help paint adhere and reveal any areas that might need a final bit of sanding before you move on to colour.

How can I paint it to look like a real, weathered water tower?

Start with a concrete tone on the base and a steel or dark grey on the tank and pipe. Once dry, you can add thin washes, drybrushing, and rust streaks to bring out the detail. Building up colour in light layers gives a much more realistic, aged look than one heavy coat.

Any tips for modelling it as a pre-restoration structure?

Leave the tank off and just use the base and pipe to suggest a structure undergoing work. Use more muted, worn colours, add extra weathering such as mossy greens and soot, and perhaps a bit of “bare concrete” effect on the top surface where the tank would sit.

Can I safely drill or modify the resin parts?

Light modifications are possible, but go gently. If you drill or carve resin, wear a dust mask and work in a well-ventilated area, as resin dust should not be inhaled. Use small, sharp tools and take your time to avoid cracking the piece.