OO9 Type 42 Wickham Armoured train - Vietnam era for a KATO 109 chassis - 009

FAQ – Product FAQs

Wickham Type 42 Armoured Train Kit – FAQ

What exactly is included in this kit?

The kit includes the resin sub-chassis, body shell, turret and a brass machined two-part Browning barrel. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed and unpainted. The Kato 109 motor bogie chassis is not included and is shown for information only.

What scale is this model?

The product is designed to fit a Kato 109 motor bogie, which is typically used in N gauge modelling. If you are matching to an existing layout, please confirm compatibility with your own Kato 109 unit and standards.

What material are the parts made from?

The kit is printed in high-detail resin, produced in-house in the UK. The machine gun barrel is brass, supplied as a two-part turned component.

Is this kit suitable for beginners?

The kit is straightforward but does assume some experience with small resin parts and model railway mechanisms. You will need to handle delicate components, perform light sanding and complete painting and detailing yourself.

Is the model based on a real prototype?

Yes. It represents the Wickham Type 42 armoured train used in the Malayan Emergency, early stages of the Vietnam War and later in Angola during the civil war. Many examples could still be seen in and around Vietnam.

Is the model supplied painted or pre-assembled?

No. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed and unpainted. You will need to assemble, prime and paint the model yourself.

How do I fit the model to the Kato 109 motor bogie?

The resin sub-chassis is designed to fit directly onto the Kato 109 motor bogie. Once the sub-chassis is in place, the body shell slides over it. Ensure the Kato chassis is correctly seated and running smoothly before fitting the body.

The turret seems loose or tight; how should it fit?

The turret is designed as a push-fit component. It should drop into the turret ring and rotate with gentle finger pressure. If it is too tight, lightly sand the mating surfaces. If it is too loose, a tiny amount of removable tack or a very small spot of glue at one point can help, taking care not to glue it solid unless you want a fixed turret.

How do I install the brass Browning barrel?

There is a pre-formed hole in the turret to accept the brass barrel. Test fit the barrel after painting the turret, then glue it in place with a small amount of cyanoacrylate (super glue). Do not flood the joint, as excess glue can mar the paint and obscure detail.

What glue should I use for assembly?

For resin-to-resin joints, use cyanoacrylate (super glue) or a high-quality epoxy for larger joins. For the brass barrel, use a small amount of cyanoacrylate. Standard plastic cement for styrene will not work on resin.

How should I handle the very small brass barrel parts?

The brass barrels are extremely small and delicate. Open the separate case over a tray or a clear workspace so they cannot roll away. Use fine tweezers and avoid gripping them too tightly. It is often easier to paint them while held in a small clamp or pinned into a piece of foam.

What should I do if a part arrives broken?

If a part is damaged in the post, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging and get in touch. While we cannot be responsible for breakages after delivery, we will see what we can do to help with postal damage.

The body does not slide fully onto the sub-chassis. What can I do?

First, check for any small bits of residual support or flash inside the body or on the sub-chassis and carefully remove them. Lightly sand any tight spots and test fit gradually. Do not force the body on, as resin can crack if stressed.

The model rocks or sits unevenly on the track.

Ensure the Kato 109 motor bogie is correctly assembled and running true on its own before fitting the resin parts. Check that the sub-chassis is fully seated and that no resin is fouling the bogie pivot or wheel movement. Remove any obstructions and re-test on a piece of straight, flat track.

The turret will not rotate smoothly.

Remove the turret and inspect the mating surfaces for paint build-up, dust or slight warping. Gently sand the turret peg and the turret ring, then clean away dust. Refit and test. A very light dry graphite or similar non-greasy lubricant can help, but avoid oils near painted surfaces.

The brass barrel will not fit into the turret hole.

Check that paint has not filled the hole. If it has, carefully clear it with a fine drill bit or needle, turning by hand. Test fit frequently and stop as soon as the barrel slides in snugly. Do not enlarge the hole too much, as the barrel should be a firm push fit before gluing.

The resin surface shows faint support marks. How do I fix this?

Although supports are removed and parts are cleaned and cured by hand, some fine marks may remain. Use very fine wet-and-dry paper or sanding sticks (around 800–1200 grit) and gently smooth the affected areas. Rinse or brush away dust before priming.

How should I clean the parts before painting?

Even though the parts are cleaned and cured, it is good practice to give them a final wash. Use lukewarm water with a drop of mild dish soap, gently scrub with a soft brush, rinse thoroughly and allow to dry completely before priming.

What primer and paints work best on this resin?

Use a good-quality primer formulated for resin or miniatures. Spray primers usually give the smoothest finish. Once primed, you can use acrylic or enamel paints according to your preference. Apply several thin coats rather than one heavy coat to preserve detail.

When should I glue the brass barrel in relation to painting?

It is usually easiest to paint the turret and barrel separately, then glue the barrel in after both are painted and fully dry. This avoids clogging detail with paint at the joint and makes it easier to achieve a clean metallic finish on the barrel.

Any tips for painting this particular prototype?

While exact schemes varied by theatre and period, you will typically be looking at military finishes appropriate to the Malayan Emergency, early Vietnam War or Angolan service. A solid military green, olive drab or suitably weathered camouflage pattern will all be plausible. Light dry-brushing and subtle weathering powders can help bring out the armour detail and give a used, in-service appearance.