G-scale model scenery - Tokheim Petrol and Diesel pumps - suitable for GN15

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FAQ – Product FAQs

G-Scale Tokheim Petrol Pump Kit – Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in this G-scale Tokheim petrol pump kit?

This listing includes nine grey resin-printed pieces, two paper dial prints and two clear PETG windows. The resin parts are: two pump bodies, two pump lids, one base, two pump hoses with nozzles and two levers. All supports are removed and everything arrives unassembled, unprimed and unpainted.

What era and prototype does this model represent?

This is a G-scale version of the classic Tokheim petrol pump used in the late 1960s and early 1970s. It is ideal for layouts and dioramas set in that period or slightly either side, especially where diesel or petrol locomotives and road vehicles need fuelling.

Which scales and layouts is this pump suitable for?

The pump is designed for G scale and works very well alongside G-scale stock. It also makes a great scenic feature for GN-15 layouts or any similar narrow-gauge scene where a slightly chunky, characterful fuel pump looks at home.

Does the model come painted or pre-assembled?

No, the model comes unassembled (where assembly is needed), unprimed and unpainted. The photos showing painted pumps are for reference only, to give you an idea of how the finished piece can look once you have primed and painted it.

What condition are the resin parts in when they arrive?

All resin parts are cleaned and cured by hand, with supports removed. We do our best to remove support marks, but some fine sanding may still be required before priming and painting to achieve the smoothest finish.

Is a figure or other accessories included with the pump?

No, figures are not included. Any figure shown in photos is for scale and atmosphere only and is not part of this listing. The kit is limited to the pump components, base, hoses, levers, paper dials and clear PETG windows described.

My resin parts arrived with small marks or faint lines. Is this normal?

Yes, very fine marks or faint layer lines can be normal with resin printing, especially where supports were attached. We carefully remove supports and clean each part, but a little light sanding is often needed to get a perfectly smooth surface, particularly on flat faces and edges.

What should I do if a part arrives broken in the post?

If your pump parts arrive damaged from shipping, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging as soon as you open the parcel. Contact the seller with those images so we can see what has happened and discuss the best way to help you.

Can you replace parts that I accidentally break while handling or building?

Resin can be quite delicate, and unfortunately we cannot be held responsible for breakages that occur after the item has arrived safely. However, if you have a mishap, it is still worth getting in touch; we will always see what we can do to help within reason.

Some small details look slightly warped or bent. How can I fix this?

Minor bends on thin parts such as hoses or levers can often be gently corrected. Carefully warming the piece in hand-warm (not hot) water and then holding it straight as it cools can help. Always be gentle, as resin can snap if forced. If a part is badly distorted on arrival, please photograph it and contact the seller.

The pump does not sit flat on my layout base. How can I level it?

If the base or pump bodies rock slightly, check for small nibs or printing remnants on the underside. A few passes with fine sandpaper on a flat surface usually levels everything out. Test-fit on your layout or diorama base as you go until the pump sits firmly and squarely.

My paper dials or clear windows do not seem to fit properly. What should I check?

First, make sure any paint or primer has not built up too heavily around the dial openings. A light scrape or sand around the edge usually restores the fit. Test-fit the paper dials and PETG windows before final gluing, and trim the paper slightly if needed so it sits neatly behind the clear window.

How do I assemble the main pump components?

A typical build sequence is:

• Test-fit the two pump bodies onto the base and adjust with light sanding if needed.
• Attach the pump lids to the bodies once you are happy with the fit.
• Add the levers and hoses with nozzles, leaving them until last so they are less likely to be knocked.
• Fit the paper dials and clear PETG windows once painting is complete, to keep them clean and clear.

Should I prime the resin before painting, and when?

Yes, priming is recommended. After any light sanding and cleaning off dust, apply a suitable primer for resin models before your main colours. Priming helps paint adhere properly and makes small imperfections easier to see and tidy up before you commit to your final paint scheme.

When is the best time to add the paper dials and clear PETG windows?

It is usually best to paint and finish the pump bodies first, then add the paper dials and clear windows at the end. This keeps overspray and fingerprints away from the clear parts and stops the paper dials from getting damp or wrinkled during painting.

Any tips for painting to match late 1960s–1970s fuel pumps?

Colour schemes varied by brand, but the key is a clean, solid main colour on the body, a contrasting trim, and crisp detailing around the dial area. Many modellers like to:

• Prime in a light grey or white to keep colours bright.
• Apply the main body colour first, then mask for any stripes or panels.
• Add light weathering only after you are happy with the basic finish.

How can I protect the finished paintwork and delicate parts on the layout?

Once fully painted and dry, you can seal the pump with a suitable clear varnish to protect the paint. When placing it on your layout, choose a spot where sleeves, hands and track cleaners are unlikely to catch the hoses or levers. Remember that resin is delicate, so a little care in positioning will keep it looking good for years.