Sturdy Railway Diorama and Modelling Baseboard, 4mm construction, 40cmx25cmx10cm

Transform your models into stunning dioramas with one of our precision laser-cut MDF modules. Each kit is crafted from 4mm MDF for excellent rigidity, including a 4mm thick central supporting brace that includes three holes for easy wiring. The unit base height is 40mm and the backboard is an additional 60mm (100mm overall) Pegs are provided if you wish to connect two or more units together or can used as blanking plugs.

I recommend using a PVA-based wood glue, like Gorilla glue which isn't included.

Modelling area: 400mm x 246mm

Overall size: 400mm x 250mm x 100mm

Shipped from stock , no waiting times

Ideal For:

• Model Displays
• Railway Dioramas
• Wargaming Dioramas

Material:

Premium-quality 4.0mm Laser Medite MDF, with a plain finish and ready to be painted and decorated.

Edges have a dark finish and may have a slight smell that fades quickly. Any marks from the laser process can be removed by light sanding or painting.

Note: This baseboard is supplied in flat-pack form and requires assembly 

FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is this product?

This is a precision laser-cut MDF module that forms a rigid baseboard for model displays and dioramas. It arrives as a flat-pack kit that you assemble yourself, giving you a strong, tidy foundation for your scenery, track, or figures.

What are the dimensions of the module?

The modelling area is 400mm x 246mm. The overall size of the unit is 400mm x 250mm x 100mm, with a 40mm base height and an additional 60mm backboard, giving a total height of 100mm.

What material is the kit made from?

The module is made from premium-quality 4.0mm Laser Medite MDF with a plain finish. The central supporting brace is also 4mm thick and includes three holes for easy wiring. The edges have a darker laser-cut finish and may show light marks that can be sanded or painted over.

What is this module best used for?

It is ideal for a wide range of modelling projects, including:

• Model displays
• Railway dioramas
• Wargaming dioramas

Does the kit come pre-assembled?

No, this baseboard is supplied in flat-pack form and requires assembly. All MDF components are included and laser-cut to size, ready for you to glue together.

How quickly will my order be dispatched?

The modules are shipped from stock, so there are no waiting times for production. Dispatch will be from existing inventory.

What glue should I use to assemble the module?

I recommend using a PVA-based wood glue, such as Gorilla wood glue. This type of adhesive provides a strong bond with MDF and gives you a bit of working time to align the parts accurately. Glue is not included with the kit.

Are the connecting pegs included, and how do they work?

Yes, pegs are provided with the kit. You can use them to connect two or more units together to create a longer or wider display. Alternatively, they can be used as blanking plugs if you prefer to keep individual modules separate while still closing any visible peg holes.

Is the MDF pre-painted or finished?

No, the MDF has a plain, unfinished surface and is ready to be painted and decorated. This allows you to match the finish to your layout or gaming table exactly as you like.

Why do the edges look darker and smell slightly burnt?

The darker edges and slight odour are a normal result of the laser-cutting process. The smell fades quickly once the kit has been out of the packaging for a short time. Any visual marks on the surface can be removed or hidden with light sanding or a couple of coats of paint.

Is the central brace necessary?

Yes, the 4mm thick central supporting brace is designed to give the module excellent rigidity and to help prevent warping. It also includes three holes to make it easier to route wiring for lighting or track feeds through the base.

The pieces don’t seem to fit together properly. What should I check first?

First, make sure all parts are correctly oriented and fully pushed into their slots without forcing them. Check that there are no small tabs of MDF left from the cutting process; if you find any, gently remove them with a craft knife or fine sandpaper. Dry-fit everything before gluing to confirm the alignment.

The module feels a bit wobbly after assembly. How can I improve rigidity?

Ensure that all joints are fully glued along their length, not just at the ends. Wipe away excess glue and allow it to dry completely on a flat surface. The central brace should be firmly fixed in place, as it is key to the overall rigidity. If needed, you can clamp or weight the assembly while the glue dries to keep it square.

There is a slight gap between some panels. Is this normal?

Small gaps can occur if parts are not fully seated or if the kit was assembled before the dry-fit was checked. Gently press the joints together while the glue is still wet. Once dry, minor gaps can be filled with a little wood filler or PVA mixed with sawdust, then sanded smooth before painting.

The laser-cut smell is strong out of the box. Is it safe, and how do I reduce it?

The smell is simply from the laser-cutting process on MDF and is normal for this type of product. It dissipates quickly once the pieces are unpacked and exposed to fresh air. You can lay the parts out in a well-ventilated area for a day or so before assembly to help the smell fade faster.

My wiring doesn’t seem to fit through the holes in the central brace. What can I do?

The three holes in the central brace are designed for typical layout wiring. If your cables are unusually thick or bundled, try feeding them through individually or using slightly thinner wire where possible. If absolutely necessary, you can carefully open the holes a little with a round file, taking care not to weaken the brace.

How should I prepare the MDF for painting?

Lightly sand the surfaces to remove any small fibres or laser marks, then brush or wipe away dust. MDF takes paint well, but sealing the surface with a primer or a thinned first coat of paint helps achieve a smoother finish and reduces paint absorption.

Do I need to seal the edges before painting?

The laser-cut edges can be a bit more absorbent than the flat surfaces. For the best finish, you can seal them with a primer, a slightly thinned PVA, or an extra coat of your base paint. Once sealed, they will take colour more evenly.

What type of paint works best on this MDF module?

Acrylic paints work very well on MDF and are commonly used in modelling. You can also use other hobby paints suitable for wood. Apply in thin layers to avoid flooding the joints, and allow each coat to dry fully before adding the next.

Can I texture the surface for scenery and ballast?

Yes, the plain MDF surface is ideal for adding scenic materials. You can apply texture pastes, scatter, ballast, static grass, and similar products using PVA or your preferred scenic adhesive. It is often easier to paint the base colour first, then add texture on top.

How can I paint the backboard to make a simple backdrop?

The 60mm backboard can be painted with a simple gradient sky, a solid colour, or any backdrop design you like. A light blue fading to a paler tone or off-white at the bottom works well for many scenes. Use thin coats and a wide, soft brush or airbrush for the smoothest result.