OO gauge Wickham Armoured train - Vietnam era with static display option

FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions – Wickham Type 42 Armoured Train Kit

What exactly is included in the kit?

The kit includes the resin-printed chassis (sub-chassis), body and turret, plus a brass machined two-part Browning barrel and a dummy “Spud” chassis for static use. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed and unpainted. The powered Tenshodo Spud motor bogie is not included and is shown for information only.

What scale is this model and what is it based on?

This is a model of the Wickham Type 42 armoured train, originally used in the Malayan Emergency and later in the early stages of the Vietnam War, with further use in Angola during the 1970s civil war. The listing is for a detailed resin kit rather than a ready-to-run model.

Is the model supplied painted or pre-assembled?

No, the model is supplied as a kit: unassembled, unprimed and unpainted. All parts are cleaned, cured and have supports removed, but you will need to assemble, prime and paint the model yourself.

What is the model made from?

The kit is 3D printed in high-detail resin and produced in the UK. The Browning machine gun barrel is turned brass in two parts. Resin components are finely detailed but can be delicate, so handle them with care.

Can I build this as a static model without a motor bogie?

Yes. The kit includes a dummy Spud chassis so you can build the model as a static display piece in a siding or diorama. You can later replace the dummy chassis with a powered Tenshodo Spud if you decide to convert it to a running model.

Is this kit suitable for beginners?

The kit is straightforward but does involve handling small resin and brass parts, plus some light sanding and painting. A careful beginner with some basic modelling tools and patience should manage it, but it is ideal for modellers with a little experience.

Which motor bogie do I need for this kit?

The sub-chassis is designed to fit a Tenshodo Spud motor bogie. Any Spud with a wheelbase up to 31 mm can be used. The Spud fits easily into place and uses the screw supplied with the motor bogie itself.

How does the body attach to the chassis?

The sub-chassis mounts onto the Tenshodo Spud using the Spud’s own screw. The resin body then slides over the sub-chassis and Spud assembly, giving a neat and secure fit once everything is aligned.

How is the turret fitted?

The turret is a push-fit into the opening on the body. Test-fit it first to ensure it rotates freely. Once painted and you’re happy with the fit, you can leave it removable or secure it with a very small amount of adhesive if you prefer it fixed.

Does the kit include the Browning machine gun?

Yes. The kit includes a brass replica two-part Browning .30 cal barrel. There is already a hole in the turret to accept the barrel. The brass parts are very small and are shipped in a separate case to help prevent loss in transit.

Can I convert a static build to a powered model later?

Yes. You can initially build the kit using the included dummy Spud chassis as a static model. At any time later, you can remove the dummy chassis, fit a Tenshodo Spud motor bogie (up to 31 mm wheelbase) and convert it into a running model.

Is any glue included with the kit?

No adhesives are included. You will need to provide your own modelling glue. A tiny drop of superglue (cyanoacrylate) is recommended for securing the brass barrel after painting.

My brass barrel parts are missing or damaged. What should I do?

The brass barrel is shipped in a separate small case because it is very tiny and easy to misplace. If it appears missing or arrives damaged, please check all packaging carefully first. If it is genuinely missing or broken in transit, contact us with clear photos of the packaging and contents so we can discuss a replacement.

The resin parts arrived broken. Can they be replaced?

If a part is damaged in the post, please take clear photographs of the damage and the packaging and contact us. While we cannot accept responsibility for breakages after safe delivery, we will do what we reasonably can to help with items broken in transit.

The turret or body doesn’t seem to fit properly. What can I do?

Resin can sometimes have tiny print or support-removal marks. If the turret or body feels tight, gently check for small bumps or ridges and carefully sand the affected areas with fine abrasive paper. Test-fit frequently and remove only a little material at a time.

The model wobbles or sits unevenly on the track.

First ensure the Tenshodo Spud (or dummy chassis) is fully seated and tightened using its screw. Check that no resin flash or debris is trapped between the chassis and body. If necessary, lightly true up any small high spots on the underside of the body or sub-chassis with fine sandpaper on a flat surface.

The brass barrel won’t sit straight in the turret hole.

Check that the turret’s barrel hole is clear of any tiny resin remnants. You can very gently ream the hole with a fine drill bit by hand (do not use a power drill on resin). Once the barrel sits straight, fix it with the smallest possible drop of superglue after painting.

How should I handle and clean the parts before painting?

All parts are cleaned and cured by hand and supplied ready for you to prime and paint. If you wish, you can give them a gentle wash in lukewarm water with a drop of mild detergent, then rinse and let them dry completely. Avoid hot water, which can warp resin, and handle the parts carefully as they are delicate.

Do I need to remove any supports or do extra clean-up?

All supports are removed before shipping, and we do our best to tidy up any marks. However, some fine sanding may still be required to achieve a perfectly smooth finish, especially on visible surfaces. Use fine-grit sanding sticks or paper and work slowly.

What primer and paint should I use?

Use a primer suitable for resin, applied in light coats to avoid obscuring detail. Once primed, you can use your preferred model paints (acrylics or enamels) according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Always ensure the parts are fully dry and grease-free before priming.

When should I glue the brass gun barrel in place?

It is best to paint the turret and barrel separately, then glue the barrel into the pre-formed hole after painting. A tiny drop of superglue is sufficient. This approach keeps the detail crisp and avoids clogging the joint with paint.

Any tips for painting this particular prototype?

Historical schemes varied with theatre and period, so choose colours that match the setting you’re modelling (Malayan Emergency, early Vietnam War or Angola). In general, a base coat of military green or appropriate camouflage, followed by subtle weathering, will bring out the armoured character. Work in thin layers to preserve the fine resin detail.