Ground level signal box - OO9/OO/HO Country or Small Goods yard

FAQ – Product FAQs

Small Country Style Ground Fixed Signal Box – FAQ

What scale is this signal box suitable for?

The footprint is 45mm x 35mm and 50mm tall, making it suitable for use as a compact countryside signal box or small goods yard building on layouts where those dimensions fit the scene. You can compare the measurements with your chosen scale to see how it will look on your layout.

What materials is the kit made from?

The main body is cut from precision laser 2mm MDF, while the window frames, door and roof boards are cut from 0.6mm polybak laserboard for fine detail and accuracy. The kit also includes clear glazing for the windows and a name board.

What type of glue should I use to assemble the kit?

The kit is designed to be easily glued together using wood glue or Roket glue. Any similar modelling-grade PVA or fast-grab adhesive suitable for MDF and laserboard will also work, as long as it dries clear and doesn’t attack the materials.

Does the kit come pre-painted or pre-assembled?

No, this is an unpainted, unassembled laser-cut kit. You build the signal box from the supplied frets and then paint it in your preferred colours to match your layout.

What is included in the kit?

The kit includes:

• Laser-cut 2mm MDF parts for the main structure
• 0.6mm polybak laserboard parts for window frames, door and roof boards
• Glazing pieces for the windows
• A name board to label with your station name
• All parts supplied in frets, ready to be carefully removed and assembled

How is the kit packaged and shipped?

The kit is shipped from stock and sent in card-backed envelopes to protect the laser-cut parts during transit through the postal system.

Some parts seem difficult to remove from the fret. How should I do it safely?

Each part is held in the fret by small tabs. Use a sharp modelling knife on a cutting mat to carefully cut through the tabs rather than forcing the parts out. Support the piece close to the tab as you cut to avoid flexing or snapping delicate sections like window frames.

What should I do if a part snaps while I’m removing it?

If a part breaks, you can usually repair it with a tiny amount of wood or Roket glue, holding it in alignment until set. For very thin parts, reinforce the joint from the back with a sliver of scrap laserboard if needed. Light sanding after the glue dries will help tidy the repair before painting.

The parts don’t seem to fit perfectly. How can I improve the fit?

Laser-cut parts are generally very accurate, but small burrs or fibres on the MDF can affect the fit. Lightly sand the mating edges with fine sandpaper, test-fit dry (without glue), and only then glue. Ensure that any charred edges or loose fibres are cleaned up so the pieces seat fully.

The MDF edges are absorbing too much paint or glue. Is this normal?

MDF edges are more absorbent than the faces. This is normal and can be managed by:

• Using a thin coat of primer or diluted PVA on the edges before painting
• Applying glue sparingly so it doesn’t soak in excessively
• Allowing each coat to dry fully before adding more paint

The glazing is fogging when I glue it in. How can I avoid this?

Fogging usually happens with solvent-based adhesives. Use a non-fogging glue such as PVA or a specialist canopy/glazing glue, and apply it sparingly around the frame, not across the clear area. Fit the glazing after painting where possible, so you can keep glue away from the visible surfaces.

My finished signal box looks a bit warped. What might have caused this?

Warping can be caused by uneven glue or paint application. To minimise this:

• Apply glue in thin, even layers and clamp or hold parts square while drying
• Prime and paint both sides of walls and the roof where possible
• Allow each stage to dry fully before moving on to the next

Do I need any special tools to assemble the kit?

You only need basic modelling tools: a sharp modelling knife, a small file or fine sandpaper, tweezers for small parts, a cutting mat and suitable glue. A small square or set-square is helpful to keep walls and corners at 90 degrees during assembly.

In what order should I assemble the signal box?

A simple sequence is:

• Carefully remove and clean up all parts from the frets
• Dry-fit the main walls to understand the layout
• Glue the walls and floor together, ensuring everything is square
• Add internal details if you wish, then fit the window frames and door
• Assemble and fit the roof boards
• Install glazing and the name board once painting is complete or nearly complete

Should I paint the parts before or after assembly?

Both approaches work. Many modellers:

• Pre-paint small details like window frames and the door while still on the fret
• Assemble the main structure unpainted for strength and alignment
• Then paint the assembled building, touching in the pre-painted details as needed

What type of paint works best on MDF and polybak laserboard?

Acrylic model paints work very well on both MDF and polybak laserboard. Use a primer first for best adhesion and to reduce grain on the MDF. Enamel paints can also be used if you prefer, but apply in thin coats and allow plenty of drying time.

How can I achieve a realistic countryside signal box finish?

To create a believable finish:

• Use muted, slightly weathered colours for walls and roof
• Pick out window frames and the door in a contrasting but realistic colour
• Add gentle weathering with washes or dry-brushing around the base, roof edges and window sills
• Finish by adding the station name to the name board in a clear, readable style

When should I fit the glazing and name board?

Fit the glazing after the main painting is complete, so you don’t have to mask the windows. The name board can be painted and lettered separately, then glued in place once you are happy with the lettering and overall finish of the building.