This is a steam locomotive kit for your GN15 layout, suitable for quarry, dockyard, or industrial estate settings, in fact anywhere a reliable steam engine is needed. The kit requires simple assembly, which is very easy and comes with instructions. Superglue is recommended for assembling all the components. I use Simonez primer and acrylic paints for finishing my models.
The kit is printed with high-detail resin in the UK and includes the chassis, body, driver, and relevant sundry dress-up items. It even comes with laser-cut plastic for the pressure gauge. These kits come unpainted and do not include the Smokey Joe chassis shown for reference; you will need to provide your own. Additionally, we offer an option with a replacement 5-pole motor for the Smokey Joe chassis. These 5-pole motors significantly improve the slow running of the Smokey Joe and are a simple clip-in replacement.
The photos of the painted steam locomotive are for reference purposes.
**GN15** is essentially narrow gauge G-Scale, modeled at 1/22.5 scale on 16.5mm gauge track.
Your kit includes:
- - Chassis suitable for a Smokey Joe chassis
- - The Steam Locomotive Pixie Body
- - Control Handle
- - Hand brake
- - Water Tank
- - Water Tank Filler Lid
- - Cab Back
- - 2x Coal bin Covers
- - Wood effect Duck board
- - Boiler Door
- - Boiler Handle
- - Realistic 3D Scanned Driver
- - 2 x Optional Coupling Blocks (if not using the Hornby ones)
- - Water Tank
- - Cab Roof
- - 4 x Square Brass rods for Cab
- - Instructions
This listing is for these resin-printed pieces in grey, along with the rods and driver.
Finishing:
- - All items are cleaned and cured by hand.
- - They are unassembled and ready for you to prime and paint.
- - We do our best to remove support marks, but some fine sanding may be required.
- - All pieces come unprimed and unpainted with all supports removed.
The condition is new and dispatched by Royal Mail in the UK. Our packaging is eco-friendly: the exterior is partly made from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the interior packing materials are acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibers.
Please note that resin can be delicate, so avoid dropping your parts. We cannot be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images, and we will do our best to assist you.
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is this kit, and what scale is it?
This is a resin-printed steam locomotive kit designed for GN15 layouts. GN15 is essentially narrow gauge G-scale, modeled at 1/22.5 scale on 16.5 mm gauge track. The kit represents a small industrial-style loco suitable for quarry, dockyard, or general industrial estate scenes.
What is included in the kit?
The kit includes all the resin-printed parts for the locomotive body and detail components, plus the driver figure and brass cab rods. Specifically, you receive a chassis shell suitable for a Smokey Joe mechanism, the Pixie body, cab components, water tank and fittings, boiler door and handle, coal bin covers, duck board, optional coupling blocks, and instructions. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed, and unpainted.
What extra parts do I need to provide myself?
You will need to supply your own Hornby Smokey Joe chassis, as it is not included and is shown in photos for reference only. You will also need paints, primer, glue (superglue is recommended), and your usual modelling tools such as files, sanding sticks, and a sharp knife.
Is the kit suitable for beginners?
The kit is designed for simple assembly and comes with instructions, so it is very approachable for anyone with a little modelling experience. If you are comfortable using superglue, handling small parts, and doing light sanding, you should find it straightforward. Complete beginners can build it too, but taking your time and doing a dry fit of parts before gluing is strongly recommended.
Does the kit come painted or primed?
No, all pieces come unprimed and unpainted. They are cleaned and cured by hand with supports removed, but you will need to prime and paint the model yourself. The photos of the painted locomotive are for reference and inspiration only.
Where is the kit made and how is it shipped?
The kit is printed in high-detail resin in the UK and dispatched by Royal Mail. The packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packaging is partly made from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the internal packing is acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.
Do I need a Smokey Joe chassis, and which one?
Yes, the kit is designed to fit a Hornby Smokey Joe chassis, which you must supply yourself. The printed chassis shell is sized to suit this mechanism. Any standard Smokey Joe-style chassis of the same pattern should be suitable, but always test fit before painting or final assembly.
What is the optional 5-pole motor, and do I need it?
An optional 5-pole motor is available as a replacement for the standard Smokey Joe motor. It is a simple clip-in replacement that significantly improves slow-speed running, which is very useful on industrial and quarry layouts where gentle shunting looks more realistic. The loco will still run with the original motor if you prefer not to upgrade.
Is the resin strong enough for regular running?
The high-detail resin is well suited for detailed bodies and fittings and is perfectly fine for normal layout use. However, resin can be delicate, so it is not as impact-resistant as some plastics. Treat the model as you would any fine-scale kit: avoid dropping it and handle it by the sturdier parts where possible.
Can I modify or kitbash the model?
Yes, the kit lends itself well to personalisation. You can add extra details, change couplings, or alter the cab and fittings to suit your chosen prototype or freelance railway. Just keep clearances for the Smokey Joe chassis and motor in mind, and test fit frequently as you modify.
What glue should I use for assembly?
Superglue (cyanoacrylate) is recommended for assembling all components. It bonds well to resin and metal. Use small amounts, apply with a fine applicator or cocktail stick, and allow joints to fully cure before handling. Traditional plastic cement will not work on resin parts.
How should I prepare the parts before painting?
The parts are already cleaned, cured, and have supports removed, but a little extra preparation will give the best finish. Gently wash parts in mild soapy water, rinse, and let them dry fully. Lightly sand any remaining support marks or mould lines, then prime the model before applying your top coats.
What type of primer and paint do you recommend?
The maker uses Simoniz primer and acrylic paints on these models. An automotive-style aerosol primer such as Simoniz gives a good key on resin. Over that, water-based acrylics brush or airbrush well and are easy to work with. Always apply thin coats and allow each layer to dry thoroughly.
How do I deal with visible layer lines or support marks?
Most support marks are removed before shipping, but some fine sanding may still be needed. Use fine-grit sanding sticks or wet-and-dry paper, working gently until the surface is smooth. Re-prime any sanded areas to check the finish; repeat the process if needed until you are happy with the result.
What should I do if parts arrive damaged in the post?
If anything has clearly been damaged during postage, please take clear photos of the parts and the packaging as soon as you notice the issue. Contact the seller with these images, and they will do their best to assist you. Breakages after safe delivery, such as damage from dropping the model, cannot be covered.
My parts seem slightly warped or out of shape. Can I fix this?
Minor warping can sometimes be gently corrected. Carefully warming the part in hand-hot (not boiling) water can make it slightly more flexible; you can then ease it back into shape and hold it there while it cools. Always test on a small, hidden area first, and do not force any part that resists, as resin can snap.
The chassis shell does not seem to fit my Smokey Joe chassis. What should I check?
First, confirm that your mechanism is the correct Smokey Joe-type chassis. Check for any small bits of flash or resin inside the shell that might be obstructing the fit, and gently trim them away. Also ensure that any wiring or pickups on your chassis are routed neatly so they do not foul the body. Always test fit before painting so you can make adjustments more easily.
The locomotive runs roughly or stalls at low speed. What can help?
Check that the Smokey Joe chassis itself is clean, lubricated appropriately, and running smoothly before fitting the body. Dirty wheels, old oil, or stiff gears can all cause poor running. The optional 5-pole motor upgrade will also greatly improve slow-speed control. Make sure the body is not rubbing on the wheels or rods, and that nothing is fouling the motion.
Some small parts do not seem to line up. How should I approach assembly?
Always dry fit parts before applying glue. If a part does not sit correctly, look for tiny printing nubs or slight misalignment and gently file or sand the mating surfaces. Work methodically, starting with the main body and chassis, then add smaller details once the core structure is square and solid.
What should I do if a small resin detail snaps during assembly?
Small breaks can often be repaired with a tiny amount of superglue. Align the broken surfaces carefully, hold them in place until the glue grabs, and allow plenty of curing time. For very fine parts, you can reinforce the joint with a small pin or wire if you are comfortable drilling tiny holes.
How do I safely handle resin parts?
Handle resin components gently and avoid flexing thin sections such as cab edges and small fittings. Support the part close to where you are working, and do not overtighten any screws or clamps you may use during test fitting. Treat the model as a detailed display piece that also happens to run on a layout.
How do I assemble the main body and cab components?
Begin by cleaning and test fitting the chassis shell to your Smokey Joe mechanism. Once you are happy with the fit, assemble the main body shell, then attach the cab back, roof, and cab supports using the supplied brass rods. Add the water tank, coal bin covers, and other larger fittings before moving on to the smaller details such as handles and coupling blocks.
When should I install the driver figure?
It is usually easiest to paint the driver separately and install him once the cab interior and basic body painting are complete. That way, you can comfortably reach all the interior details without working around the figure. A small spot of superglue on his feet or base will hold him securely in place.
How should I prime and paint the model for best results?
After cleaning and lightly sanding, apply a thin, even coat of primer such as Simoniz and allow it to dry fully. Follow with several thin layers of acrylic paint rather than one thick coat. Start with the main body colour, then pick out details like fittings, cab interior, and the driver. Finish with gentle weathering if desired to suit your quarry, dock, or industrial setting.
Any tips for painting the small details like handles and gauges?
Use a fine brush and slightly thinned acrylic paint so it flows smoothly. Paint the control handles and brake lever in contrasting but realistic colours so they stand out, and use the laser-cut plastic pressure gauge as a focal point in the cab. Working under good lighting and using a magnifier can make detailing much easier.
How can I achieve a realistic industrial or quarry finish?
After your base colours are dry, add light weathering to suggest hard-working industrial service. Techniques such as dry-brushing lighter tones on edges, adding thin washes of darker colour into recesses, and dusting on subtle rust and grime tones around the boiler, tank, and footplate all help. Focus on areas where dirt and wear would naturally accumulate, like steps, cab floor, and around the smokebox.
