G-scale model scenery - BT Phonebox K8 version - very suitable for GN15

FAQ – Product FAQs

G-Scale K8 Phone Box – Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in my order?

Your order includes one G-scale K8 phone box, one telephone, one shelf, one plinth, and three pieces of clear PETG for you to cut to size for the glazing. The listing is for four resin-printed pieces in grey, supplied unassembled (if needed), unprimed, and unpainted.

What type of phone box is this model based on?

This is a K8 phone box, the more modern style used from the 1970s onwards. It’s ideal for more contemporary layouts and scenes, and works very nicely on GN-15 layouts as well.

What scale is this phone box suitable for?

The phone box is designed for G-scale layouts. Many modellers also find the proportions work well as scenic detail on GN-15 layouts and similar larger-scale dioramas.

What material are the parts made from?

The phone box, telephone, shelf, and plinth are resin printed in grey. The glazing is provided as three pieces of clear PETG sheet for you to cut and fit yourself.

Do the parts come pre-assembled or painted?

No, all parts come unassembled (if needed), unprimed, and unpainted. They are cleaned and cured by hand and supplied ready for you to do any final prep, then prime, paint, and assemble to your own taste.

Is the figure shown in photos included?

No, any figure shown in photos is not included. It’s there just to give a sense of scale and atmosphere.

My parts arrived with faint marks or lines – is that normal?

Yes, minor support marks are a normal part of resin printing. Every item is hand cleaned and cured, and we do our very best to remove support marks, but some fine sanding may still be required to achieve a perfectly smooth finish before priming and painting.

What should I do if a part arrives broken in the post?

If your item is damaged during shipping, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging as soon as you notice it. Contact us with those images and we’ll see what we can do to help. We can’t be responsible for breakages after safe delivery, but we always try to support fellow modellers when something goes wrong in transit.

How delicate is the resin, and how should I handle it?

Resin can be quite delicate, especially on thinner details, so handle the parts gently and avoid dropping them. When sanding, cutting, or test-fitting, support the piece close to where you’re working to reduce stress on the parts.

Can I use this phone box outdoors in a garden railway?

The model is supplied as bare resin and clear PETG. If you plan to use it outdoors, you’ll need to prime and paint it with suitable paints and sealers to help protect it from sunlight and weather. The base material itself is not specified as weatherproof, so long-term outdoor use is at your own discretion.

Is this phone box suitable for any particular era or region?

The K8 design is appropriate from the 1970s onwards and works well in more modern or late 20th-century British-style scenes. It’s ideal for contemporary layouts, urban corners, and updated rural stations where the old K6 box would have been replaced.

Do I need any special tools to work with this kit?

No specialist tools are required, but most modellers find the following helpful: a fine hobby knife, small files or sanding sticks, a fine razor saw or scissors for PETG, and standard modelling glues and paints suitable for resin and clear plastic.

The parts don’t seem to fit perfectly – how can I improve the fit?

Dry-fit everything first before gluing. If something feels tight, lightly sand the contact surfaces with fine sandpaper or a sanding stick until the parts slide together cleanly. Take off small amounts at a time and test frequently so you don’t over-sand.

There are small bumps or rough areas – how do I smooth them out?

Use fine-grit sandpaper (around 600–1000 grit) or fine sanding sticks to gently smooth any raised spots, support marks, or print lines. Work slowly and evenly, and avoid pressing too hard on thin details to prevent snapping.

What should I do if a small part snaps while I’m working on it?

Resin can be repaired. Align the broken surfaces carefully and glue them with a suitable modelling adhesive for resin. Once cured, you can lightly sand the join and, if needed, use a small amount of modelling putty to blend it before priming and painting.

How can I safely cut the clear PETG glazing pieces?

Score the PETG gently several times with a sharp hobby knife along a straightedge, then bend along the scored line until it snaps cleanly. Alternatively, use fine scissors designed for plastic. Always measure twice and cut once, leaving a tiny bit extra that you can trim or sand for a snug fit.

Do I need to wash the parts before priming?

The parts are cleaned and cured by hand, so they’re generally ready to work with. If you prefer, you can give them a quick wash in mild soapy water, rinse, and let them dry thoroughly before priming to ensure the best paint adhesion.

What kind of primer should I use on the resin?

Use a primer that is suitable for resin miniatures or plastic models. A fine surface primer will help reveal any remaining imperfections and give your paint a good key. Apply in light coats to avoid obscuring detail.

How should I paint the phone box for a realistic finish?

After priming, apply your chosen colour in thin coats, allowing each coat to dry fully. You can pick out details like the door frames and interior separately. A gentle wash and dry-brush can bring out the panel lines and edges, and a satin or matt varnish will help protect your work.

When should I install the clear PETG windows?

It’s usually best to paint and fully finish the phone box body first, then cut and fit the PETG glazing afterwards. This helps keep the clear parts free of overspray and fingerprints. Use a clear-drying adhesive sparingly around the edges so it doesn’t fog the windows.

What glue should I use to assemble the parts and attach the glazing?

For resin-to-resin joins, use a suitable modelling glue or resin-compatible adhesive. For the clear PETG glazing, use a clear-drying glue that is safe for clear plastics and apply it sparingly to avoid smears and fogging on the visible surfaces.