OO9 009 Prototype Railbus for KATO 103 / 109 / 105

FAQ – Product FAQs

OO9 Railbus Body & Interior Kit – FAQ

What exactly is included in this OO9 railbus kit?

The kit includes the OO9 railbus body shell, separate roof and separate interior seating unit. All parts are supplied unassembled (where applicable), unprimed and unpainted, with all printing supports removed. The KATO chassis shown in some photos is not included and is for illustration only.

Which chassis does this railbus body fit?

The railbus body is designed to work with either a KATO 103, KATO 105 or KATO 109 chassis. You simply choose the appropriate option from the drop-down when ordering, and the body will clip onto the matching chassis.

Is the model pre-painted or ready-to-run?

No, this is not a ready-to-run model. All parts are supplied unpainted and unprimed, ready for you to clean up (if desired), prime, paint and assemble. The painted examples in the photos are to show the level of finish you can achieve.

Where is the kit made and what material is used?

The railbus kit is printed in the UK in high-detail resin. Each item is cleaned and cured by hand before dispatch, and supports are removed so you can go straight to any final finishing, priming and painting.

Is a driver or passengers included with the kit?

No figures are supplied with the kit. The interior seating is a separate part so you can paint it easily and then fit your own choice of driver and passengers before dropping the interior into place.

How is the kit packaged and shipped?

The kit is dispatched by Royal Mail in eco-friendly packaging. The outer packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the internal packing materials are acid-free and made from approximately 99% recycled pulp fibres.

My kit arrived with slight marks or rough areas. Is this normal?

Minor surface marks or faint support traces can occur with high-detail resin printing. We do our very best to remove support marks before dispatch, but some very light sanding or smoothing may still be required in places before priming and painting.

What should I do if a part arrives broken in the post?

If your kit has been damaged during shipping, please take clear photos of the damage and get in touch. While we can’t cover breakages that happen after safe delivery, we will always see what we can do to help if the item has been damaged in transit.

Can you be held responsible if I break a part while handling or building?

Resin can be quite delicate and can break if dropped or handled roughly. We cannot be held responsible for breakages once the item has arrived safely, so please take care when handling, test-fitting and assembling the parts.

Do I need any special tools to prepare the resin parts?

You do not need specialist tools. A few basic modelling tools are usually enough, such as a fine sanding stick or small files for smoothing, a sharp hobby knife for any tiny nibs, and tweezers for careful handling. Always work slowly and gently with resin.

Is the resin safe to handle?

The parts are fully cured and safe to handle in normal use. As with any resin model, it is sensible to wash your hands after sanding or filing, avoid breathing in dust, and work in a well-ventilated area when using primers, paints and glues.

Can I modify or kitbash the railbus body?

Yes, many modellers choose to add their own detailing, weathering or interior figures. The resin takes careful cutting and sanding, so you can customise within reason. Just remember the material is delicate, so make any modifications slowly and gently.

The body doesn’t seem to clip onto my KATO chassis. What can I check?

First ensure you have the correct chassis type (KATO 103, 105 or 109) matching the option you selected. Check that there are no small bits of resin or flash inside the body that might obstruct the fit, and that the chassis is clean and fully seated in its normal configuration. A very light clean-up of any tight spots on the inside of the body may help the clip fit.

The roof feels very tight when I try to push-fit it. How should it fit?

The roof is designed as a push-fit onto the body so it can be removed for painting and interior work. It should press into place firmly but without forcing. If it feels too tight, check for any tiny ridges or paint build-up on the mating surfaces and gently smooth them with fine sandpaper until the roof seats snugly without excessive pressure.

My interior seating doesn’t drop into place easily. What should I do?

Check that the inside of the body is free from any stray resin or paint lumps and that the interior part is clean and square. The seating unit is designed to drop into place, but a small amount of careful sanding on the edges or corners may be needed if paint has slightly thickened the part or if there is a tight spot inside the body.

There are faint lines or small blemishes on the surface. How can I improve the finish?

Light surface lines or tiny imperfections can usually be removed with very fine wet-and-dry paper or a fine sanding stick. Work gently in small circular motions, then wash off any dust, allow the part to dry thoroughly, and apply a good quality primer before painting. The painted example photos show the kind of finish you can achieve with a little preparation.

What if the railbus rocks or sits unevenly once mounted on the chassis?

First check that the chassis itself is sitting flat on a known level surface. If the chassis is fine, ensure the body is clipped on evenly and is not fouling on any protruding part of the chassis. Occasionally a tiny high spot of resin inside the body may need a light file so the body sits squarely on the chassis.

Do I need to wash the resin parts before painting?

The parts are cleaned and cured by hand before dispatch, so they are generally ready to prime. Many modellers still prefer to give resin parts a quick wash in lukewarm water with a drop of mild detergent, then rinse and allow them to dry fully, as this can help primer adhere even better.

What type of primer should I use on the resin?

Use a primer that is suitable for resin and plastic miniatures, such as a good-quality model spray primer. Apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat, allowing each to dry thoroughly. This helps preserve the fine detail and provides a good key for your top coats.

How should I approach painting the body, roof and interior?

Because the roof and interior are separate parts, it is easiest to paint them individually. Many modellers prime and paint the body exterior first, then the interior seating, and finally the roof. Once all parts are fully dry, you can add your driver and passengers to the interior and then assemble the model.

Can I use brush paints or do I need an airbrush?

You can use either brush paints or an airbrush, depending on your preference. The high-detail resin surface takes both well, provided you use a suitable primer. An airbrush will give very smooth, even coats, while brush painting is perfectly fine for smaller areas, details and interior work.

Any tips to avoid damaging the resin while assembling and painting?

Handle the parts by the thicker areas where possible, and avoid gripping thin details too hard. Use gentle pressure when test-fitting the body, roof and interior, and never force a part into place. When sanding or cleaning up, work slowly with fine tools, and allow plenty of drying time between primer and paint coats so the surface doesn’t become tacky.