OO9 009 Diema DS60 Style Diesel Locomotive Shunter Body For KATO 109

This is a 009 Diesel Shunter Body to use on a KATO 109 chassis. It has been designed to evoke the style of the Diema locos such as the DS60. 

FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included with this 009 Diesel Shunter Body kit?

The kit includes the high-detail resin 009 Diesel Shunter body and sub-chassis, plus brass handrails and a 3D driver figure based on a scan of a real person. All parts are supplied unassembled (if needed), unprimed and unpainted, with all supports removed. No KATO chassis, track, scenery or other accessories are included.

Which chassis is this body designed to fit?

This body is designed specifically to fit the KATO 109 chassis. It clips securely onto the KATO chassis, and the body is then a push fit into the sub-chassis for a snug and reliable fit.

What prototype does this model resemble?

The body has been designed to evoke the look and character of Diema diesel locomotives, such as the DS60, while remaining a freelance-style 009 narrow gauge diesel shunter body for your layout.

Is the model ready to run straight out of the box?

No, this is not a ready-to-run locomotive. It is a detailed body and sub-chassis kit to be used with your own KATO 109 chassis. You will need to fit the body to the chassis, and you are responsible for any painting, detailing and finishing.

Where is the kit produced and how is it printed?

The kit is printed in the UK using high-detail resin. Each item is cleaned and cured by hand, with supports removed and the parts prepared so that they are ready for you to prime and paint.

How is the item packaged and shipped?

The item is dispatched by Royal Mail within the UK and by Royal Mail for worldwide orders. Packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the interior packing materials are acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.

The body does not seem to clip securely onto my KATO 109 chassis. What should I check?

First, ensure that you are using the correct KATO 109 chassis and that it is clean and free from flash or debris. Check that there are no stray bits of resin or packing material in the clip areas of the body or sub-chassis. Gently test-fit without forcing; often a tiny amount of careful sanding on any high spots is enough to achieve a snug clip fit.

The body is sitting crooked on the chassis. How can I fix this?

Remove the body and inspect the contact points between the body, sub-chassis and KATO chassis. Look for any slight warping or small resin nubs that may prevent it from seating correctly. Lightly sand any raised areas and re-fit, making sure the clips engage evenly on both sides. Take your time and avoid bending the resin.

One of the resin parts arrived damaged. What should I do?

If the piece appears to have been damaged in the post, please take clear photographs of the damage and the packaging as soon as possible. Contact the seller with these images so they can assess what has happened and see what can be done to help put things right.

The resin feels delicate. Is this normal?

Yes, fine-detail resin can be quite delicate, especially on thin sections such as handrails, cab edges and small details. Handle the parts carefully, avoid dropping them, and do not apply excessive force when test-fitting or sanding. Once assembled and painted, the model will be more robust but still requires sensible handling.

The surface shows faint support marks. How should I deal with them?

All items are cleaned by hand and supports are removed, but very fine support marks can sometimes remain. These are usually easily dealt with by gentle sanding using fine wet-and-dry paper or sanding sticks. Work slowly, keep edges crisp, and only remove as much material as needed to smooth the surface.

Do I need to wash or further cure the parts before painting?

The parts are cleaned and cured by hand before dispatch, so they are ready for you to prime and paint. If you prefer, you may give them a light wash in lukewarm soapy water and allow them to dry fully before priming, but further curing is not generally required.

Do I need to do any preparation before priming and painting?

Yes, some minor finishing may be required. Typical steps include:

• Inspecting the parts for any small support marks and gently sanding them smooth.
• Checking that the body and sub-chassis fit the KATO 109 chassis comfortably.
• Optionally washing the parts in mild soapy water and letting them dry to remove any handling residue.

What type of primer and paint should I use on the resin?

Use a primer that is suitable for resin miniatures or plastic model kits, applied in light coats to avoid obscuring detail. After priming, you can use your preferred model paints (such as acrylic or enamel) following the paint manufacturer’s instructions. Always test on a hidden area first if you are unsure.

How do I fit and glue the brass handrails?

The kit includes brass handrails that can be bent and superglued into place for extra detail. Carefully bend the brass to match the handrail locations on the body, test-fit without glue, then fix them using a small amount of cyanoacrylate (superglue). Work slowly and avoid flooding the area with glue to keep the detail crisp.

When should I install the 3D driver figure?

It is often easiest to paint the driver separately, then fix him into the cab once the interior and body have been painted and weathered to your satisfaction. Dry-fit first to see how he sits in the cab, then use a small amount of suitable glue to secure him in place.

Should I assemble the body before or after painting?

The design allows for easy painting prior to final assembly. Many modellers prefer to:

• Test-fit the body, sub-chassis and chassis to ensure everything fits.
• Disassemble and paint the body, sub-chassis, handrails and driver separately.
• Then carry out final assembly once the paint has fully cured.

This approach helps you achieve a neat finish, especially in the cab and around fine details.