• OO9 Loco

OO9/009 Steam Locomotive with Coal Bunker fits the Kato chassis 11-109

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OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis
OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis
OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis
OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis
OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis
OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis
OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis
OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis
OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis
OO9 narrow gauge steam locomotive kit with coal bunker, designed to fit a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis

Product details


Here is a nice little steam loco, taking inspiration from the Sharp, Stewart and Co. Locos. Featuring a coal bunker on top of the boiler that feeds through shutes into the cab. You'll need to supply your own coal! The kit chassis is designed in such a way to clip easily onto a Kato 11-109 motor  bogie chassis. The Kato chassis  can be carefully removed if you want to use it again on something else. 

The body is also a simple drop fit onto the chassis to allow for painting prior to assembly. We have also added an Interior piece that can be painted seperately that depicts the interior along with a 3d scanned driver. This is a great easy to build kit, and can be painted so that it will look really nice on your layout. We recommend either standard car primer or Tamiya primer as a base coat and finished with acrylic paints

We print our own models here in the UK using high detail resin. The sale is for the kit chassis, body, driver , cab interior, it is unpainted. The pictures showing the Kato chassis are for information purposes only, you will need supply one. See our shop for suitable motor chassis. 

Finishing: All items are cleaned and cured by hand. They are unassembled and ready for you to prime and paint. We do our very best to remove support marks but some fine sanding may be required. All pieces and parts come unprimed and unpainted with all supports removed. Please do bear in mind that resin can be quite delicate so try to avoid dropping your parts! Sadly, we can't be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images and we will of course see what we can do to help.

**  Uses components of a Creative Commons Public Domain file by DoubleM_Models



FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in this kit?

The kit includes the resin body shell, the kit chassis that clips onto a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis, a separate cab interior piece, and a 3D scanned driver figure. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed, and unpainted, with supports removed.

What scale and prototype style is this locomotive?

The model is designed as a small narrow gauge steam locomotive in the style of Sharp, Stewart & Co. engines. It is suitable for OO9 narrow gauge layouts using the Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis.

Is the Kato 11-109 motor chassis included?

No, the Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis is not included. It is shown in some photos for illustration only. You will need to purchase a Kato 11-109 separately or use one you already own.

What material are the parts made from?

All parts are printed in high-detail resin. The models are printed, cleaned, and cured in the UK, with supports removed by hand before packing.

Is the model suitable for beginners?

Yes, this is intended as an easy-to-build kit. The body is a simple drop fit onto the chassis, and the interior and driver are separate pieces for straightforward painting and assembly. Some basic modelling skills, such as light sanding and careful handling of resin, will be helpful.

Do I need to supply my own coal?

Yes. The locomotive features a coal bunker on top of the boiler that feeds through chutes into the cab, but you will need to provide your own coal or coal-effect material to finish the model.

How do I fit the kit chassis to the Kato 11-109 motor bogie?

The kit chassis is designed to clip onto the Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis. Align the kit chassis carefully over the Kato unit and press gently until it clips into place. Take your time and avoid forcing the parts to prevent damage to the resin or the Kato mechanism.

Can I remove the Kato chassis later if I want to use it for another model?

Yes. The Kato chassis can be carefully removed from the kit chassis if you decide to reuse it. Ease the clips apart gently and slide the Kato unit out, taking care not to stress the resin parts or the motor bogie.

The body does not seem to drop onto the chassis properly. What should I check?

First, ensure that any small bits of cured resin or flash are removed from the inside of the body and the top of the chassis. Lightly sand any tight spots and test fit again. Make sure the Kato 11-109 is fully seated in the kit chassis so the body can sit down correctly. Do not force the body; adjust gradually until it fits smoothly.

My model arrived with slight marks where supports were removed. Is this normal?

Yes. All supports are removed by hand and we do our best to minimise marks, but very fine support traces can remain. These are easily tidied up with light sanding or scraping before priming and painting.

What should I do if something is broken in the post?

If the kit arrives damaged from shipping, please take clear photos of the broken parts and the packaging and get in touch. We will review the images and do what we can to help. We cannot be responsible for breakages that occur after safe delivery.

The resin parts feel delicate. How should I handle them?

Resin can be quite fragile, especially on fine details. Handle parts over a soft surface, avoid dropping them, and support thin sections (such as cab edges and handrails) when sanding or fitting. Use gentle pressure when test-fitting or clipping the chassis together.

Do I need to clean the parts before painting?

The parts are already cleaned and cured by hand, so in most cases you can go straight to a light sanding where needed and then priming. If you wish, you can give them a quick rinse in mild soapy water, then allow them to dry completely before priming.

What primer do you recommend?

We recommend either a standard automotive (car) primer or Tamiya primer as a base coat. Both give a good key on resin and provide a solid surface for acrylic paints to adhere to.

What type of paints work best on this model?

Acrylic paints are recommended for finishing. They adhere well over a suitable primer and are easy to work with in thin layers for fine detail. You can brush paint or airbrush, depending on your preference.

Should I assemble the model before or after painting?

The locomotive is designed so you can paint in stages. A common approach is:

  • Test-fit all parts first.
  • Prime and paint the body shell separately.
  • Prime and paint the cab interior and driver separately.
  • Once everything is painted and fully dry, assemble the interior and driver, then drop the body onto the chassis.
This helps you get neat paintwork inside the cab and around details.

How do I paint the cab interior and driver?

Because the interior piece and driver are separate, you can work on them at the bench without the body in the way. Prime them first, then use fine brushes and thin acrylic layers to pick out controls, floor, and clothing details. Once dry, you can glue the interior and driver into place before fitting the body onto the chassis.

Do I need to sand the resin before priming?

Only where necessary. Inspect the model for any slight support marks or small ridges and gently sand those areas with fine-grit abrasive. Avoid heavy sanding on detailed areas. After sanding, remove dust and then apply your chosen primer.

Any tips for making the coal bunker look realistic?

After painting the bunker itself, you can add your own coal or coal substitute. Many modellers use crushed real coal, fine ballast, or textured scenic materials glued in place. A dark base coat with a dry-brushed highlight on the coal surface helps bring out the texture and makes the top-mounted bunker and chutes stand out nicely.

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