GN15 - Cabbed version of the English Electric Brush critter kit quarry loco

This is a cab version of the electric loco for GN15 layouts, workyards, gas factories and industrial estates. It requires assembly and superglue will do the trick for the components included. The chassis also has trays at each end that can be filled with lead shot to assist traction (Liquid gravity). This is based on the Brush electric vehicles  built for the Ministry of Munitions in 1917 by the Brush Electrical Engineering for use in a mustard gas factory. 

GN15 Brush Electric Cab Loco Kit – Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in this kit?

The kit includes seven high-detail resin pieces in grey: a chassis designed for a Tenshodo/Hanazono style motor unit, the Brush electric body with integral roof, a motor block/seat, an interior electric panel, glazing for the windows, two coupling blocks, and a 3D scanned driver figure. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed, and unpainted.

What scale and gauge is this model for?

This kit is designed for GN15 layouts. GN15 is essentially narrow gauge G-scale, modelled at 1:22.5 scale and running on 16.5 mm gauge track (the same track gauge as OO/HO, but with larger scale models).

Is the motor chassis included?

No, the powered Tenshodo chassis (spud) is not included. It is shown in some photos for illustration only. The printed chassis in the kit is designed to accept a suitable motor unit that you supply yourself.

What motor unit is the chassis designed to take?

The chassis is suitable for a 35 mm wheelbase Tenshodo (or Hanazono) type motor unit with wheels in the 10.5 mm to 12 mm diameter range. This combination fits the kit well and is recommended for GN15 use.

What prototype is this model based on?

The loco is based on Brush electric vehicles built by Brush Electrical Engineering for the Ministry of Munitions in 1917, used in a mustard gas factory. The kit represents a cab version of that industrial electric loco, ideal for workyards, gas factories, and industrial estates on GN15 layouts.

How are the parts produced and finished before shipping?

All parts are 3D printed in high-detail resin in the UK. They are cleaned and UV cured by hand, supports are removed, and the parts are supplied unassembled (where applicable), unprimed, and unpainted. Some light sanding may still be needed to remove minor support marks.

What glue should I use to assemble the kit?

Standard cyanoacrylate (superglue) works well for assembling the resin components supplied in the kit. Apply small amounts and allow each joint to set fully before handling. There is no need for solvent plastic cement, as the parts are resin rather than styrene.

Can this loco run on other gauges or scales?

The kit is designed specifically for GN15 (1:22.5 on 16.5 mm track). While experienced modellers sometimes adapt bodies for other gauges or scales, any such conversion would be at your own discretion and would require additional modification beyond what the kit is designed for.

Is the driver figure included and what is special about it?

Yes, the driver is included. It is an unpainted 3D scanned model taken from a real person, giving a natural pose and realistic proportions suitable for GN15 scale. You can position and paint the driver to suit your chosen era and setting.

Is the model supplied painted like in the photos?

No, the model is supplied unpainted in grey resin. The painted examples shown in photos are to demonstrate how the loco can look once you have assembled and painted it yourself.

How is the kit packaged and shipped?

The kit is dispatched by Royal Mail within the UK. Packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packaging is made partly from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, while the interior packing materials are acid-free and made from approximately 99% recycled pulp fibres.

Is resin fragile? How should I handle the parts?

Resin can be delicate, especially finer details, so handle the parts gently and avoid dropping them. Take extra care when cleaning, sanding, or test-fitting. Once assembled, the model is robust enough for normal layout use, but it is still a scale model and should be treated accordingly.

What should I do if my kit arrives damaged in the post?

If you find any damage that appears to have occurred during shipping, please take clear photos of the affected parts and the packaging as soon as possible and get in touch. While we cannot be responsible for breakages after safe delivery, we will do our best to help where damage has occurred in transit.

My parts have visible support marks – is this normal?

We carefully remove supports and clean each part by hand, but faint support marks or fine layer lines can remain. This is normal for high-detail resin printing. A little gentle sanding or scraping with a fine file or blade will usually remove these marks before priming.

The parts don’t seem to fit together perfectly. What can I do?

Dry-fit everything first without glue. If a joint is tight, lightly sand or file the mating surfaces until they seat properly. Resin tolerances can vary slightly, so a small amount of fitting is normal. Do not force parts together, as this can cause cracking or breakage.

The loco feels too light and slips when running. How can I improve traction?

The chassis includes trays at each end that can be filled with lead shot or a product like Liquid Gravity to increase weight and improve traction. Add the weight gradually and secure it with a suitable adhesive, making sure it does not foul the motor unit or wheel rotation.

The glazing doesn’t seem to sit correctly in the window openings.

Check for any small bits of resin or paint around the window apertures and carefully clean them up with a sharp blade or fine file. Test-fit the glazing pieces dry, then fix them in place with a small amount of clear-drying adhesive, avoiding fogging by keeping glue away from visible areas.

My superglue isn’t bonding well to the resin. Any tips?

Ensure the surfaces are clean and grease-free. Lightly sanding or scuffing the mating areas can improve the key for superglue. Use fresh cyanoacrylate and apply only a thin film; thick blobs can cure poorly and weaken the joint.

What basic steps should I follow to assemble the body and chassis?

As a simple sequence: dry-fit the motor unit into the printed chassis, then glue the chassis components once you are happy with the fit. Attach the body to the chassis, fit the interior electric panel and motor block/seat, then add the coupling blocks and driver. Finally, fit the glazing after painting to keep it clear.

Do I need to wash the parts before painting?

The parts are cleaned and cured before dispatch, but it is still good practice to give them a quick wash in warm (not hot) soapy water, then rinse and let them air dry completely. This helps remove any remaining dust or handling oils and improves paint adhesion.

What type of primer works best on this resin?

A good quality hobby primer suitable for resin, applied in thin coats, works best. Both aerosol and airbrush primers are fine, as long as they are compatible with plastic and resin. Always test on an offcut or hidden area first if you are unsure.

How should I approach painting the loco and driver?

After priming, build up colour with thin coats rather than one heavy coat. For the loco, start with your main body colour, then add details like electric panels, couplings, and roof variations. For the driver, paint skin tones first, then clothing and details. Finishing with a light wash and dry-brushing can bring out the 3D detail.

Any tips for adding weathering to suit industrial layouts?

Industrial locos look great with subtle weathering. After your base colours are dry, you can add thin washes to pick out panel lines, use dry-brushing to highlight edges, and apply rust or grime effects around the underframe, couplings, and roof. Build the weathering gradually so you don’t lose the fine detail of the resin print.