GN15 - 1917 version of the English Electric Brush critter kit munitions loco

FAQ – GN15 1917 Brush Electric Loco Resin Kit

What exactly is included in this kit?

This listing is for seven high-detail resin printed pieces in grey. You receive the chassis (designed to accept a Tenshodo/Hanazono style motor unit), brush electric body with integral roof, motor block/seat, interior electric panel, glazing for the windows, two coupling blocks, and a 3D scanned driver figure. All parts are supplied unassembled (where applicable), unprimed and unpainted.

Is a motorised chassis included with the kit?

No, the powered chassis is not included. The photos show a Tenshodo-style motor unit for information only. The printed chassis is designed to accept a 35 mm wheelbase Tenshodo spud (or similar Hanazono type) with wheels in the 10.5 mm to 12 mm diameter range.

What scale and track gauge is this model for?

This kit is designed for GN15 layouts. GN15 is basically narrow gauge G-scale, modelled at 1:22.5 scale and running on 16.5 mm gauge track (standard OO/HO track). It is ideal for industrial scenes such as workyards, gas works, factories and quarries.

What material is the kit made from and where is it produced?

The kit is printed in high-detail resin and is produced in the UK. All items are cleaned and cured by hand before packing. Supports are removed, but you may wish to do a little fine sanding in places to achieve your preferred finish.

Is the model based on a real locomotive?

Yes. This is a version of a 1917 Brush electric locomotive. The originals were built for use in munitions factories during the First World War and many later found their way into industrial settings such as slate quarries. The kit is designed to capture that compact industrial character for GN15 layouts.

How is the kit packaged and shipped?

The kit is dispatched from the UK by Royal Mail. Packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packing is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the interior packing materials are acid-free and made from approximately 99% recycled pulp fibres. The condition is new at the time of dispatch.

What glue should I use to assemble the kit?

Standard cyanoacrylate (superglue) works very well on the resin parts supplied. Apply sparingly to clean, dry mating surfaces and hold the parts in position while the glue sets. There is no need for specialist adhesives for the included components.

Do I need to add extra weight, and where does it go?

The chassis has trays at each end designed to accept additional weight to improve traction. These can be filled with lead shot, Liquid Gravity, or similar granulated weight material, fixed in place with a suitable adhesive. Adding weight in these trays helps the loco pull more reliably, especially on industrial-style trackwork.

Is the driver figure included, and what is special about it?

Yes, a driver figure is included. The driver is an unpainted 3D model scanned from a real person, giving a very natural pose and realistic proportions in GN15 scale. You can paint and weather the figure to match your chosen era and setting.

Is the kit suitable for beginners?

The kit is straightforward for anyone with a little experience of resin or white-metal kits. Parts come cleaned and cured with supports removed, but you should be comfortable with basic tasks such as test-fitting, supergluing, light sanding and brush painting. If you are completely new to kits, take your time and dry-fit everything before gluing.

Can this loco be used on layouts other than GN15?

The kit is designed specifically for GN15 (1:22.5 scale on 16.5 mm track). You could adapt it for other narrow gauge scales that also use 16.5 mm track, but that would be at your own discretion. The proportions and detailing are optimised for GN15 industrial scenes.

Is the model supplied painted like in the photos?

No. The photos showing a painted locomotive are for illustration only, to give you an idea of how the kit can look when finished. Your kit will arrive in plain grey resin, unprimed and unpainted, ready for you to finish in your own livery.

My parts arrived with slight marks where supports were removed. Is this normal?

Yes, minor support marks are normal with high-detail resin printing. The parts are cleaned, cured and de-supported by hand, but you may find small marks or faint lines. These are easily dealt with using fine wet-and-dry paper or sanding sticks before priming.

The resin feels delicate. How robust is the model?

Resin gives excellent detail but is more brittle than injection-moulded plastic. Thin sections such as handrails or edges can be delicate, so avoid dropping or twisting parts. Once assembled, primed and painted, the model is perfectly suitable for normal layout use, but it is still a scale model rather than a toy.

What should I do if something is broken in the post?

If your kit arrives damaged, please take clear photos of the broken parts and the packaging and contact the seller. While breakages after safe delivery cannot be covered, damage in transit will be assessed and the seller will see what they can do to help.

My Tenshodo unit does not seem to fit the chassis correctly. How can I check compatibility?

The chassis is designed for a Tenshodo-style spud with a 35 mm wheelbase and wheels in the 10.5 mm to 12 mm range. Check that your unit matches these dimensions and that there are no moulding sprues or paint on the motor block that might interfere with the fit. Test-fit the motor before gluing anything, and gently ease any tight spots with a fine file if needed.

The loco runs but traction is poor. How can I improve it?

First, make sure the motor unit is seated flat in the chassis and that all wheels are clean. Then add weight to the trays at each end of the chassis using lead shot, Liquid Gravity or similar, fixed with glue. Extra weight over the motor bogie greatly improves traction, especially on gradients or slightly dirty track.

The body does not sit squarely on the chassis. What should I check?

Dry-fit the body on the chassis and look for any resin flash or small ridges on the mating surfaces. A few gentle strokes with a flat file or fine sanding stick usually resolves this. Also ensure that the motor block, interior panel and wiring (if fitted) are not fouling the inside of the body shell.

The glazing pieces seem slightly tight in the window openings. How can I fit them safely?

Do not force the glazing. Test each piece dry, and if it is tight, very lightly dress the window opening with fine sandpaper or a small file until the glazing slips in without pressure. Use tiny dots of a non-fogging adhesive around the edges to secure the glazing, avoiding superglue fumes directly on the clear parts.

What is the recommended priming process for the resin parts?

A light coat of automotive car body primer works very well on this resin. Ensure the parts are clean and free from dust, then apply several thin coats rather than one heavy coat. Once the primer is fully dry, you can proceed with your chosen acrylic paints and weathering.

Can I use acrylic paints on this model?

Yes. Acrylic paints work very nicely over a properly applied primer coat. Car body primer as a first coat, followed by acrylics for colour and weathering, gives a durable and realistic finish. Allow each layer to dry thoroughly before handling or masking.

How should I prepare the surfaces before painting?

After any light sanding, rinse the parts in lukewarm water with a drop of mild detergent, then let them dry completely. This removes any remaining dust or handling oils. Once dry, apply your primer and check for any remaining blemishes before moving on to the main colours.

Any tips for painting the 3D scanned driver figure?

Prime the driver along with the other parts, then block in basic colours such as overalls, skin and boots with acrylics. Once dry, add simple highlights and washes to pick out the natural folds and details captured by the 3D scan. A little careful shading on the face and hands really brings the figure to life in the cab.

How can I achieve a realistic industrial finish on the loco?

After your base colours are on, use gentle weathering to reflect industrial use: thin washes to pick out panel lines, dry-brushing for edges, and subtle rust or grime around the underframe and roof. Because the prototype locos worked in factories and quarries, a slightly worn, dusty look suits them very well.