GN15 - English Electric Brush critter kit quarry loco - G-scale on 00 track

This is an electric loco for GN15 layouts, workyards, gas factories and industrial estates. It requires assembly and superglue will do the trick for the components included. The chassis has trays at each end that can be filled with lead shot to assist traction (Liquid gravity). This is based on the Brush electric vehicle as seen in the last image, which was built for the Ministry of Munitions in 1917 by the Brush Electrical Engineering for use in a mustard gas factory. The version here is without the canopy. 

GN15 Brush Electric Loco Kit – Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in this kit?

This kit includes eight grey, high-detail resin printed parts: a chassis suitable for a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono (recommended 31 mm wheelbase with 10.5 mm diameter wheels), the Brush electric body, brake handle, power control, seat and two coupling blocks. These parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed and unpainted, with supports removed.

What scale and track gauge is this loco for?

The kit is designed for GN15, which is essentially narrow gauge G-scale at 1:22.5 scale running on 16.5 mm gauge track. It is ideal for industrial, factory, workyard and similar layouts in that scale and gauge combination.

Is this a powered locomotive straight out of the box?

No, this is a body and detail kit only. It does not include a motor bogie or Tenshodo chassis. The Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono unit shown in the photos is for illustration only and must be purchased separately.

What prototype is this model based on?

The model is based on a Brush electric vehicle built in 1917 by Brush Electrical Engineering for the Ministry of Munitions, used in a mustard gas factory. This kit represents the version without the canopy, making it well suited to industrial and factory scenes.

How are the parts produced and finished before shipping?

All parts are 3D printed in high-detail resin in the UK. They are cleaned, cured and have their supports removed by hand. Some fine sanding may still be required to achieve the smoothest finish before priming and painting.

How is the kit packaged and shipped?

The kit is dispatched by Royal Mail within the UK. Packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packaging is partly made from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the inner packing materials are acid-free and made from approximately 99% recycled pulp fibres.

Why doesn’t my kit include a driver figure or canopy?

The kit is for the chassis, body and small dress-up items only. It does not include a driver figure or canopy. The driver seen in some photos is for display purposes only and is not part of this listing.

Is the resin fragile? How should I handle the parts?

Resin can be quite delicate, especially on finer details. Handle parts gently, avoid dropping them and do not force-fit components. Work over a soft surface when possible to reduce the risk of damage if a part is dropped.

Can this kit be used with other motor bogies or chassis?

The chassis is designed to suit a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono type unit, with a preference for the 31 mm wheelbase and 10.5 mm wheels. Other similar motor bogies may be adaptable at your own discretion, but the kit is optimised for the stated units.

Is any metal weight included for traction?

No metal weight is included. The chassis has trays at each end designed to be filled with your own lead shot or products such as Liquid Gravity to improve traction.

Do I need any special tools to assemble the kit?

Basic modelling tools are sufficient: a sharp hobby knife, fine files or sanding sticks, tweezers and a good quality superglue. Optional tools such as a pin vice and small clamps can make the build easier but are not strictly required.

Is this kit suitable for beginners?

The kit is straightforward as resin kits go, but it does require careful handling, gluing and basic finishing skills. A patient beginner with some experience of small models should manage it, while more experienced GN15 modellers will find it a simple and enjoyable build.

My parts arrived with small marks or faint lines. Is this normal?

Minor surface marks or faint layer lines can occur with high-detail resin printing. Support marks are carefully cleaned up before dispatch, but you may still find small areas that benefit from a light sanding or filling before priming. This is normal for resin kits.

What should I do if a part arrives broken in the post?

If a piece is damaged during transit, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging and contact the seller. While breakages after delivery cannot be covered, postal damage will be assessed and the seller will see what can be done to help.

The motor bogie doesn’t seem to fit the chassis properly. How can I fix this?

First, check that you are using a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono with the recommended 31 mm wheelbase and 10.5 mm wheels. Test-fit the bogie without glue and look for any small printing nibs or paint build-up that may be obstructing the fit. Gently file or sand tight spots and ensure the bogie sits flat and square before final installation.

The loco derails on curves. What should I check?

Check that the motor bogie is correctly seated and can swivel freely, that the wheel gauge is correct and that any added weight in the trays is secure and evenly distributed. Also ensure that couplings are at a sensible height and not snagging on track or bufferbeams.

The resin parts are slightly warped. Can I straighten them?

Mild warping can often be corrected by gently warming the part in hand-hot (not boiling) water, carefully bending it back to shape and holding it in position under cold running water. Do this slowly and cautiously, and only if needed.

My superglue joints are weak or not bonding. Any tips?

Ensure the mating surfaces are clean, dry and free of dust or sanding residue. Lightly key smooth areas with fine sandpaper, then apply fresh superglue sparingly. Hold the joint firmly until the glue grabs. Avoid using old or thickened glue, as it bonds poorly to resin.

How should I add weight to the chassis trays safely?

Use lead shot or a similar product such as Liquid Gravity. Place the shot in the trays and lock it in place with a small amount of thin superglue or PVA, taking care to avoid fumes and skin contact. Always work in a well-ventilated area and follow the safety guidance for your chosen material.

Do I need to wash the parts before painting?

The parts are cleaned before dispatch, but it is still good practice to give them a gentle wash in warm water with a drop of mild detergent, then rinse and allow them to dry completely. This helps remove any remaining residue and improves paint adhesion.

What primer and paints work best on this resin?

Use a primer specifically suitable for plastic or resin, applied in light coats. Once primed, you can use most hobby acrylics or enamels. Always test your chosen products on a hidden area first to ensure compatibility and adhesion.

How can I achieve an industrial, work-worn finish?

After priming and base-coating, build up layers of weathering with washes, dry-brushing and powders. Focus on areas where grime would naturally collect, such as around the chassis, floor, controls and coupling blocks, to capture that hard-worked factory look.

When should I fit the small details like the brake handle and power control?

It is usually easiest to assemble the main body and chassis first, then paint them. Small details such as the brake handle, power control and seat can be painted separately and added towards the end, reducing the risk of damage during handling.

Any tips for painting the interior and driver area?

Paint the interior before permanently fitting the roof or any parts that restrict access. Pick out the controls, brake handle and seat in contrasting but realistic industrial colours. If you add your own driver figure, paint and fit him after the interior is finished to avoid awkward brush angles.