This is a diesel maintenance inspection loco for GN15 layouts, workyards and industrial estates. It requires assembly and superglue will do the trick for the components included. It's based on the Solva water treatment loco as originally supplied by Bradshaws.
The kit is printed using high detail resin in the UK and the sale is for the chassis, body and sundry dress up items only. It comes unpainted and supplied without the tenshodo chassis which is shown here for information only.
The first few pictures shows the kit painted so you can see what it can look like. The driver is not included, as he has a job hereand wants to stay.Â
**GN15 is basically narrow gauge G-Scale. Modeled at 1/22.5 scale on 16.5mm gauge track.
Your order will come with the following great pieces :Â
Chassis/body  suitable for a Tenshodo spud / Hanazono (I prefer the 31mm wheelbase with 10.5mm diameter wheels)
Cargo area
Tailgate
Seat cover
Dustbin with removable lid
Jerry can
2x Acrylic Light lens
This listing is for seven resin printed pieces in grey and 2x laser cut acrylics lens .Â
Finishing: All items are cleaned and cured by hand. They are unassembled (if needed). Ready for you to prime and paint.
We do our very best to remove support marks but some fine sanding may be required.
All pieces and parts come unprimed and unpainted with all supports removed. The condition is New and is dispatched by Royalk Mail in the UK. Our packaging is Eco friendly, the exterior packing is made in part from Recycled Materials and is fully recyclable, the interior packing materials are acid free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.
Please do bear in mind that resin can be quite delicate so try to avoid dropping your parts! Sadly, we can not be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images and we will see what we can do to help.
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is this kit?
This is a resin-printed diesel maintenance inspection loco kit for GN15 layouts, workyards and industrial estates. It is based on the Solva water treatment loco as originally supplied by Bradshaws and is supplied as an unassembled, unpainted kit for you to build, prime and paint.
What scale and track gauge is this for?
The kit is designed for GN15, which is basically narrow gauge G-Scale, modelled at 1/22.5 scale on 16.5 mm gauge track.
What parts are included in the kit?
Your order includes seven grey resin-printed pieces and two laser-cut acrylic light lenses. The resin parts are: chassis/body (suitable for a Tenshodo spud / Hanazono type chassis), cargo area, tailgate, seat cover, dustbin with removable lid and a jerry can, plus 2x acrylic light lenses.
Is a motorised chassis included?
No. The Tenshodo (or similar) motorised chassis shown in some photos is for illustration only and is not included in the sale. You will need to provide your own chassis, such as a Tenshodo spud or Hanazono unit.
Is the driver figure included?
No. The driver shown in some of the painted example photos is not included with the kit.
How is the kit packaged and shipped?
The kit is dispatched from the UK by Royal Mail. The exterior packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable. The interior packing materials are acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.
What do I need to assemble the kit?
The parts are supplied unassembled and unpainted. Superglue (cyanoacrylate) is suitable for assembling the resin components and the acrylic lenses. You will also need basic modelling tools such as a sharp knife, small files or sanding sticks, and tweezers.
Do I need to clean the parts before assembly?
All items are cleaned and cured by hand before dispatch, and supports are removed. However, many modellers like to give resin parts a quick wash in mild soapy water, rinse and allow them to dry fully before priming, just to ensure the best paint adhesion.
How should I fit the Tenshodo or Hanazono chassis?
The chassis/body is designed to accept a Tenshodo spud or Hanazono type unit. The seller mentions a preference for a 31 mm wheelbase with 10.5 mm diameter wheels. Test-fit your chosen chassis carefully, adjust as needed with gentle filing, and fix it in place with a small amount of suitable adhesive if you want a permanent fit.
Do I need to do any sanding?
Support marks are removed as far as possible before shipping, but some fine sanding may still be required. Use fine-grit abrasive sticks or paper and work gently, especially around delicate details, to smooth any remaining marks or layer lines.
What primer and paint should I use on the resin?
The kit is supplied unprimed and unpainted, ready for you to finish. Use a primer that is suitable for resin (many hobby acrylic or enamel primers work well). Once primed, you can use your preferred model paints and weathering products, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
How should I handle the resin parts?
Resin can be quite delicate, so handle the parts carefully and avoid dropping them. Take extra care with thinner areas such as edges and small details, and support parts well when sanding or test-fitting.
What if my kit arrives damaged in the post?
If the piece is broken in the post, please provide clear images of the damage and the packaging. The seller will then see what can be done to help. Breakages after safe delivery, such as accidental drops during handling or assembly, cannot be covered.
The parts arrived warped or slightly bent. What can I do?
If you encounter minor warping, many modellers gently warm resin parts in hand-hot (not boiling) water, carefully bend them back into shape and hold them in position while they cool. Always test this on a small, less visible area first and proceed cautiously to avoid damage.
The parts do not seem to fit together perfectly. Any tips?
Dry-fit everything before gluing. If joints are tight, lightly sand or file the mating surfaces until they fit snugly. Work slowly and remove a little material at a time. Resin is easy to sand, but once it is gone, it is hard to put back, so patience pays off.
My superglue is not bonding well to the resin. What should I check?
Ensure the parts are clean, dry and free from dust or grease. Lightly roughening the bonding surfaces with fine sandpaper can improve adhesion. Use fresh superglue and hold the parts together firmly for the recommended curing time. Avoid using excessive glue, as it can take longer to set and may leave visible marks.
How do I avoid breaking small details during assembly?
Work on a soft surface, such as a cutting mat, and use tweezers for small components. Do not force parts into place; instead, adjust the fit by careful sanding. When clamping or holding parts, apply pressure to the thicker, stronger areas rather than delicate edges or corners.
Should I paint the parts before or after assembly?
Many modellers prime all parts first, then decide whether to paint them on the sprue or after sub-assembly. Small details like the dustbin, jerry can and seat cover are often easier to paint separately and then attach. Larger areas, such as the main body and cargo area, can be assembled, primed and painted as a unit to avoid visible glue marks on finished paint.
Any tips for painting the loco body?
After priming, build up colour in thin coats rather than one heavy coat to preserve detail. Mask off areas where you want sharp colour separations and allow each layer to dry fully before handling. Weathering powders, washes and dry-brushing can add a well-used industrial feel that suits a maintenance inspection loco very nicely.
How can I paint and detail the accessories (dustbin, jerry can, etc.)?
Prime the accessories separately, then paint them in appropriate colours, such as metal tones for the dustbin and fuel colours for the jerry can. A dark wash in the creases, followed by a light dry-brush with a lighter shade or metallic colour, will bring out the moulded detail and give a realistic, slightly worn look.
What is the best way to handle the acrylic light lenses?
Handle the acrylic lenses with clean hands or tweezers to avoid fingerprints and scratches. Fit them after painting the body, using a tiny amount of clear or canopy-type adhesive rather than solvent glues that might fog the plastic. Ensure the recesses are clean and free of paint build-up so the lenses sit neatly.
How can I achieve a realistic industrial finish overall?
Think about the loco’s working environment: a water treatment plant, yard or industrial estate. Layers of subtle grime, rust streaks on metal areas, dust on horizontal surfaces and a few paint chips around high-wear edges can all help. Build weathering up gradually, stepping back often to check the overall effect, rather than applying heavy effects in one go.
