The kit is printed using high detail resin in the UK and the sale is for the chassis, body and sundry dress up items only. It comes unpainted and supplied without the tenshodo chassis which is shown here for information only. The preferred chassis for this model is a 35mm wheelbase with the 14mm diameter wheels.
The first few pictures shows the kit painted so you can see how good the finish is.
Air Tank
Instrument dial
Gear box
Air Filter
Exhaust Pipe
Filler cap
FAQ – Product FAQs
GN15 Deutz Diesel Loco Kit – FAQ
What exactly is included in this GN15 diesel loco kit?
This listing includes thirteen high-detail grey resin parts: a chassis suitable for a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono type unit, the Deutz-style diesel body, 2 x coupling blocks, engine block, air tank, instrument dial, gearbox, air filter, exhaust pipe and filler cap. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed and unpainted.
Is a motorised chassis included with the kit?
No, the motorised Tenshodo chassis shown in some photos is for illustration only and is not included. The kit provides a chassis shell suitable for a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono type unit.
What chassis and wheel size works best with this model?
The preferred option for this loco is a 35 mm wheelbase chassis with 14 mm diameter wheels. This keeps the proportions right for GN15 and fits neatly under the body.
What scale and track gauge is this kit designed for?
This model is designed for GN15 layouts, workyards and industrial estates. GN15 is essentially narrow gauge G-Scale, modelled at 1:22.5 scale running on 16.5 mm gauge track.
What condition will the parts arrive in?
All items are resin printed in the UK, then cleaned and cured by hand. They arrive as new parts, unassembled, unprimed and unpainted, with supports removed and ready for you to prime, paint and detail.
How is the kit packaged and shipped?
The kit is dispatched by Royal Mail in eco-friendly packaging. The outer packaging is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, while the inner packing is acid-free and made from approximately 99% recycled pulp fibres. Only the kit is included; any dioramas or painted models in photos are for reference.
What glue should I use to assemble the kit?
Standard superglue works very well on these resin parts and will give a strong, permanent bond. If you prefer a less permanent option, Roket glue is a good alternative. Avoid solvent-based plastic cements, as these are intended for styrene rather than resin.
Do I need to do any cleaning or sanding before assembly?
Parts are supplied cleaned, cured and with supports removed. However, you may find a few fine support marks or slight printing artefacts. A light rub with fine wet-and-dry paper or sanding sticks will tidy these up before priming.
Is this kit suitable for beginners?
The kit is straightforward, but it does assume some basic modelling skills such as handling small resin parts, using superglue and painting. If you have built a few resin or white-metal kits before, you should be very comfortable with this build.
Can I run this loco on standard OO/HO track?
Yes. GN15 uses 16.5 mm gauge track, which is the same gauge as OO/HO. While the scale is larger (1:22.5), the track itself is compatible with standard OO/HO flexi-track and set-track.
Are the photos of a painted model what I will receive?
No. The painted models in the photos are to show what the finished loco can look like and to demonstrate the surface quality. Your order will be for the unpainted, unassembled grey resin kit only, without the diorama, figures or motorised chassis.
What should I do if parts arrive damaged?
Resin can be delicate, and while we pack carefully, damage in transit can occasionally happen. If your kit arrives with broken parts, please take clear photos of the damage and get in touch so we can see what we can do to help. We cannot be responsible for breakages that occur after safe delivery.
My parts seem slightly warped. Can this be fixed?
Minor warping in thin resin parts can usually be corrected by gently warming the piece in hot (not boiling) water, carefully bending it back into shape and then holding it in position under cold water. Always test on a small area first and handle with care.
The parts do not seem to fit together properly. What can I check?
First, dry-fit everything without glue. If joints are tight, lightly sand the mating faces with fine paper until they seat cleanly. Check for any small remnants of support nubs that might be interfering with the fit. Work slowly and remove a little material at a time.
The resin surface looks slightly rough in places. Is that normal?
A small amount of texture or faint layer lines can appear on some surfaces with high-detail resin printing. This is normal and usually disappears under a combination of light sanding and a good primer coat. Concentrate on visible flat areas such as bonnet tops and cab sides.
My superglue joint has gone cloudy or frosty. What can I do?
Superglue fumes can cause a white “bloom” on resin. To reduce this, use small amounts of glue, ensure good ventilation and avoid trapping fumes inside enclosed spaces. Any light frosting can often be gently polished away or hidden under primer and paint.
What should I do if I accidentally break a small detail part?
Resin is brittle, so small pieces can snap if stressed or dropped. If the break is clean, you can usually repair it with a tiny drop of superglue. For very fine parts, support them with tweezers while gluing and allow plenty of time to cure before handling again.
How should I prepare the resin for painting?
Even though the parts are cleaned, it is good practice to give them a quick wash in lukewarm water with a drop of mild detergent, then rinse and let them dry thoroughly. This helps remove any remaining residue and improves paint adhesion.
What primer and paints work well on this kit?
A good quality acrylic or enamel primer formulated for plastics and resin works best. Once primed, you can use your preferred model paints, whether brush-painted or airbrushed. Always apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat to preserve the fine detail.
Any tips for painting a convincing industrial diesel finish?
For a workyard or industrial look, consider:
- A solid base colour for the body (industrial greens, reds or faded yellow all suit this type of loco).
- Darker shades for the engine block, gearbox and underframe to suggest oil and grime.
- Detail painting on the instrument dial and filler cap to pick out small features.
- Weathering with washes, dry-brushing and powders to add rust, dust and fuel stains.
In what order should I assemble and paint the parts?
Many modellers find it easiest to assemble the main body and chassis shell first, then prime and paint these together. Smaller dress-up items like the air tank, exhaust, air filter, instrument dial and filler cap can be painted separately and added later. Always test-fit with your chosen motorised chassis before committing to final glue and paint.
Can I modify or add extra details to the kit?
Yes, the resin takes well to careful cutting, drilling and sanding, so you can add your own details such as extra pipework, cab fittings or weathering effects. Just take your time and support the part close to where you are working to avoid stress and breakage.
