OO9/009 Fowler MFP No.4 Diesel locomotive to fit a Kato chassis 11-109

Here is a diesel loco inspired by the Fowler MFP No. 4 (Ministry of Fuel and Power). The kit chassis is designed in such a way to clip easily onto a Kato 11-109 motor  bogie chassis. The Kato chassis  can be carefully removed if you want to use it again on something else. 

The body is also a simple drop fit onto the chassis to allow for painting prior to assembly. The kit also comes with a set of glazing and handrail knobs and handrail. This is a great easy to build kit, and can be painted so that it will look really nice on your layout. We recommend either standard car primer or Tamiya primer as a base coat and finished with acrylic paints.

Instructions
When fitting the glazing, insert the side pieces first, then the front and back glazing. Use something like Glue n Glaze to fix these into place. 
The handrail knobs are TINY, they will disappear and wink out of existence if you drop them. Handle these and assemble these parts over a tray so they don't get lost. Also fix one handrail knob onto the wire and glue into place, this will help as you can fit that and slide the other knobs on and then into place. 

We print our own models here in the UK using high detail resin. The sale is for the kit chassis, body, glazing, handrail and knobs, it is unpainted. The pictures showing the Kato chassis and the painted versions are for information purposes only, you will need to supply a chassis and paint yours.

Finishing: All items are cleaned and cured by hand. They are unassembled and ready for you to prime and paint. We do our very best to remove support marks but some fine sanding may be required. All pieces and parts come unprimed and unpainted with all supports removed. Please do bear in mind that resin can be quite delicate so try to avoid dropping your parts! Sadly, we can't be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images and we will of course see what we can do to help.

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FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in the kit?

The kit includes the resin-printed loco body, the kit chassis (designed to clip onto a Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis), glazing pieces, handrail wire and handrail knobs. All parts are supplied unassembled, unprimed and unpainted, with supports removed.

What else do I need to run this locomotive?

You will need to supply your own Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis, as this is not included. You will also need primer, paints, glue (such as Glue n Glaze for the glazing), and basic modelling tools for assembly and finishing.

Is this kit suitable for beginners?

Yes, this is designed as an easy-to-build kit. The chassis clips onto the Kato 11-109, and the body is a simple drop fit. The main things to watch are the tiny handrail knobs and the usual care needed with resin parts.

What scale and gauge is this kit intended for?

The kit is designed to fit the Kato 11-109 motor bogie chassis, commonly used in OO9 and similar narrow gauge applications. It is inspired by the Fowler MFP No. 4 diesel loco for use on model railway layouts.

Is the model already painted or primed?

No, the model is supplied unpainted and unprimed. All parts are cleaned, cured and have supports removed, but you will need to prime and paint the model yourself.

Where are the models produced?

All models are printed in high-detail resin in the UK. Each item is cleaned and cured by hand before being packed for dispatch.

The Kato 11-109 chassis feels tight when clipping into the kit chassis. What should I do?

First, check that there are no stray bits of resin or support marks inside the kit chassis. A light clean-up with a fine file or sanding stick can help. Align the Kato 11-109 carefully and apply gentle, even pressure until it clips into place. Do not force it; remove and adjust if there is resistance.

How do I remove the Kato 11-109 chassis if I want to use it elsewhere?

The kit chassis is designed so the Kato 11-109 can be carefully unclipped. Support the resin chassis firmly, gently flex the sides just enough to release the clips, and slide the Kato chassis out. Take your time to avoid stressing the resin.

The resin body arrived with slight surface marks. Is this normal?

Minor surface marks from the printing process can occur, although we do our best to remove support marks. Light sanding with fine abrasive paper or sanding sticks will usually smooth these out before priming.

My model arrived broken in the post. What should I do?

If your kit has been damaged in transit, please take clear photos of the broken parts and the packaging as soon as possible and contact us. We will review the images and see what we can do to help.

I dropped a part and it snapped. Can you replace it?

Resin can be quite delicate, and we cannot be held responsible for breakages after delivery. However, if you need advice on repairing a broken part, feel free to ask; often a clean break can be repaired with suitable modelling glue.

My glazing pieces don’t seem to fit properly. Any tips?

Make sure any paint or primer has been kept away from the glazing recesses. Fit the side glazing pieces first, then the front and back pieces as recommended. If necessary, very lightly dress the edges of the glazing with fine abrasive until they slide into place without force.

How should I fit the glazing securely?

Once the glazing pieces are test-fitted, use a product such as Glue n Glaze or another clear, non-fogging adhesive. Apply a tiny amount around the edges, press the glazing into place, and allow it to dry fully before handling the model further.

The handrail knobs are too small to handle. How can I manage them?

The handrail knobs are extremely tiny and easy to lose. Work over a tray or shallow box so that any dropped pieces are caught. Fix one knob onto the wire and glue it in place first; this gives you something to hold while you slide the remaining knobs onto the wire and into their holes.

What primer should I use on the resin parts?

We recommend either standard car primer or Tamiya primer as a base coat. Apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat to avoid obscuring detail, and allow the primer to dry thoroughly before painting.

What paints work best for finishing the model?

Acrylic paints work very well over a properly primed surface. Once the primer has fully cured, apply thin coats of acrylics, building up the colour gradually. This will help maintain the fine detail of the print.

Should I paint the body before or after assembly?

The body is designed as a simple drop fit onto the chassis so you can paint it separately before final assembly. Many modellers find it easiest to:

• Test-fit the body and chassis first
• Paint the body and any separate details
• Fit and glue the glazing
• Add handrails and knobs
• Finally drop the body onto the chassis once everything is dry

Do I need to wash the parts before priming?

The parts are cleaned and cured by hand before dispatch, but a quick rinse in mild soapy water followed by a thorough dry can help ensure the surface is completely free of any remaining residue before priming.

Any general tips to avoid damaging the resin during assembly and painting?

Handle the parts gently, avoid dropping them, and always support thin sections when filing or sanding. Use light pressure when clipping the body onto the chassis, and allow glues and paints to dry fully before moving on to the next stage.