• Critter
  • Diesel
  • GN15
  • Loco
  • narrow gauge

GN15 - Diesel critter -Terrot kit NEW - G-scale on 00 track uses a tenshodo spud

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Regular price
$73.00
Sale price
$73.00
Regular price
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2 Items in Stock
Unpainted GN15 narrow gauge diesel critter locomotive kit for G scale on 00 track, shown on a Tenshodo spud motor chassis
Unpainted GN15 diesel critter locomotive kit in G scale for 00 gauge track, shown on a Tenshodo spud motor bogie chassis
Unpainted GN15 diesel critter locomotive kit for G scale on 00 gauge track, shown on a Tenshodo spud motor bogie chassis
Unpainted GN15 diesel critter locomotive kit in G scale for 00 gauge track, shown on a Tenshodo spud motor bogie chassis
Unpainted GN15 diesel critter locomotive kit in G scale for 00 gauge track, shown on a Tenshodo spud motor bogie chassis
Unpainted GN15 diesel critter locomotive kit for G scale on 00 gauge track, shown on a Tenshodo spud motor bogie chassis
Unpainted GN15 diesel critter locomotive kit for G scale on 00 gauge track, shown with a Tenshodo spud motor bogie chassis
Unpainted GN15 diesel critter locomotive kit body for G scale on 00 gauge track, shown on a Tenshodo motor bogie chassis
Unpainted GN15 diesel critter locomotive kit for G scale on 00 gauge track, shown on a Tenshodo spud motor bogie chassis

Product details

This is a diesel loco for GN15 layouts, workyards and industrial estates. It requires assembly and superglue will do the trick for the components included. The chassis has pockets and a tray that can be filled with lead shot to assist traction (Liquid gravity).
The kit is printed using high detail resin in the UK and the sale is for the chassis, body and sundry dress up items only. It comes unpainted and supplied without the tenshodo chassis which is shown here for information only.
The first few pictures shows the kit in grey primer so you can see how good the finish is. The driver is not included, as he has a job here in the factory and wants to stay. 

**GN15 is basically narrow gauge G-Scale. Modeled at 1/22.5 scale on 16.5mm gauge track.
 
Your order will come with the following great pieces : 
 
Chassis suitable for Tenshodo spud / Hanazono (I prefer the 31mm wheelbase with 10.5mm diameter wheels)
Diesel Terrot Body 
Control Handle
Hand brake
Air Filter
Exhaust Stack
Radiator Cap
Seat
2 x Coupling blocks
 
This listing is for nine resin printed pieces in grey. 
 
Finishing: All items are cleaned and cured by hand. They are unassembled (if needed). Ready for you to prime and paint.
 
We do our very best to remove support marks but some fine sanding may be required.
 
All pieces and parts come unprimed and unpainted with all supports removed. The condition is New and is dispatched by Royal Mail. Our packaging is Eco friendly, the exterior packing is made in part from Recycled Materials and is fully recyclable, the interior packing materials are acid free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.
 
Please do bear in mind that resin can be quite delicate so try to avoid dropping your parts! Sadly, we can not be held responsible for breakages once your item has arrived. However, if the piece is broken in the post, please provide images and we will see what we can do to help.


FAQ – Product FAQs

GN15 Diesel Loco Kit – Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is included in this GN15 diesel loco kit?

The kit includes nine high-detail resin pieces in grey: a chassis suitable for a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono (31mm wheelbase with 10.5mm wheels is preferred), Diesel Terrot body, control handle, hand brake, air filter, exhaust stack, radiator cap, seat, and 2 x coupling blocks. All parts are supplied unassembled (where applicable), unprimed and unpainted.

What scale and track gauge is this kit designed for?

This loco is designed for GN15 layouts, which is basically narrow gauge G-scale: 1:22.5 scale running on 16.5mm gauge track. It’s ideal for workyards, industrial estates and similar small industrial scenes.

Is the motorised Tenshodo chassis included in the kit?

No, the Tenshodo (or Hanazono) motorised chassis is not included. It is shown in the photos for information and illustration only. The resin chassis is designed to accept a Tenshodo Spud / Hanazono unit that you supply yourself.

Does the kit come with a driver figure?

No, the driver is not included. He appears in some photos for scale and atmosphere only, but he is not part of this kit.

What material is the kit made from and where is it produced?

The kit is 3D printed in high-detail resin and produced in the UK. All items are cleaned and cured by hand before packing.

How is the kit packaged and shipped?

The kit is dispatched by Royal Mail. Packaging is eco-friendly: the outer packing is made in part from recycled materials and is fully recyclable, and the interior packing materials are acid-free and made from 99% recycled pulp fibres.

How do I assemble the resin parts?

The parts are designed to be assembled with superglue. Test-fit each component first, then apply a small amount of superglue to clean, dry mating surfaces and hold them in place until the bond sets. Work slowly and allow joints to fully cure before handling the model further.

Do I need to clean the parts before gluing or painting?

All items are cleaned and cured by hand, but it’s still good practice to give them a light wash in warm (not hot) soapy water, rinse thoroughly and let them dry completely. This helps remove any remaining residue and improves glue and paint adhesion.

Can I add weight to improve traction?

Yes. The chassis has pockets and a tray designed to be filled with lead shot or products like Liquid Gravity. Adding weight here will help improve traction once the Tenshodo / Hanazono chassis is installed.

What type of glue should I use?

Standard cyanoacrylate (superglue) works very well on this resin. Use a medium or thick grade for most joints, and a thin grade if you want it to wick into tight gaps. Avoid solvent cements intended for styrene, as they won’t bond this resin properly.

Is any sanding or surface preparation required?

We do our very best to remove support marks, but some fine sanding may be required in places. Use fine wet-and-dry paper or sanding sticks and work gently so you don’t damage the detail. After sanding, remove dust before priming.

How fragile are the parts?

Resin can be quite delicate, especially on thinner details like handles and the exhaust stack. Avoid dropping the parts or applying excessive pressure. Handle the model by sturdier areas such as the body shell while you work.

The parts arrived broken. What should I do?

If the piece is broken in the post, please take clear photos of the damage and the packaging as received. Contact us with these images and we will see what we can do to help. We cannot be responsible for breakages that occur after safe delivery.

My parts arrived slightly warped or bent. Can this be fixed?

Minor warping on resin parts can often be corrected by very gently warming the affected area in hand-hot (not boiling) water, carefully bending it back into shape, and then cooling it under cold water. Always test on a small area first and do not over-bend.

The parts don’t seem to fit together properly. What should I check?

First, ensure any remaining support nubs or printing artefacts are carefully trimmed or sanded away. Check that mating surfaces are flat and free of dust. Lightly sand tight joints and test-fit repeatedly until the parts seat neatly. Do not force them together dry if there is obvious interference.

The Tenshodo / Hanazono chassis doesn’t sit correctly in the resin chassis.

Check that the resin chassis pockets and tray are free of flash or stray resin. Lightly file or sand any high spots and test-fit the Tenshodo / Hanazono unit gradually. Make sure no added weight (lead shot, Liquid Gravity) is obstructing the chassis and that wires, if any, are routed clear of the pockets.

My superglue joints are weak or not bonding.

Weak joints are usually caused by dusty, greasy or glossy surfaces. Gently sand the contact areas with fine paper, clean off dust, and ensure the parts are completely dry. Use fresh superglue and hold the pieces firmly together until the glue has set. Avoid using too much glue, as a thick layer can be weaker than a thin, well-clamped joint.

How should I prime the model?

After cleaning and drying the parts, use a primer suitable for resin. A good quality spray primer gives an even base. Apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat, allowing each to dry. The first few photos of the product show the kit in grey primer, which is a good example of the finish you can aim for.

What type of paint is suitable for this resin kit?

Use paints that are compatible with your chosen primer. Acrylics and enamels both work well once the model is properly primed. Apply thin coats and allow each layer to dry fully before adding the next to preserve the fine surface detail.

Do I need to assemble the model before painting?

You can do it either way, but many modellers prefer to assemble the main body and chassis components first, then paint, leaving small dress-up items like the control handle, hand brake, air filter, exhaust stack, radiator cap and seat to be painted separately and attached later. This makes it easier to reach all the details.

How can I get the best surface finish on the printed parts?

After a light sanding to remove any remaining support marks, use a good primer and inspect the surface under strong light. If you see minor layer lines or imperfections, gently sand and re-prime those areas. Working in thin layers of primer and paint will keep the crisp detail visible.

Any tips for painting industrial GN15 locos like this?

For a convincing workyard or industrial look, consider:

  • Starting with a solid base colour appropriate to your chosen railway or factory.
  • Adding subtle weathering to suggest oil, dust and general grime.
  • Picking out details such as the control handle, hand brake, air filter and exhaust stack in contrasting but realistic colours.
  • Finishing with a matt or satin varnish to protect your paintwork.

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