Railway Diorama and Modelling Case, 4mm construction, 60cmx30cmx25cm

Ideal size for a round and round layout using Kato track or Peco flexitrack. 
Transform your models into stunning dioramas with one of our precision laser-cut MDF cases. Each kit is crafted from 4mm MDF for excellent rigidity, including a 4mm thick central supporting brace that includes two holes for easy wiring. The unit base height is 45mm and the backboard is an additional 200mm (250mm overall).

Pictures with track, train and wagons are just for show only so you can see a layout in situ and these are not included.

I recommend using a PVA-based wood glue, like Gorilla glue which isn't included.

Overall size: 600mm x 300mm x 250mm

Shipped from stock via EVRI in the UK or eBay Global Shipping for overseas customers.

Ideal For:

• Model Displays
• Railway Dioramas
• Wargaming Dioramas

Material:

Premium-quality 4.0mm Laser Medite MDF, with a plain finish and ready to be painted and decorated.

Edges have a dark finish and may have a slight smell that fades quickly. Any marks from the laser process can be removed by light sanding or painting.

Note: This baseboard is supplied in flat-pack form and requires assembly 

FAQ – Product FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What exactly is this product?

This is a precision laser-cut MDF display case/baseboard kit, supplied flat-pack. It’s designed for small layouts and dioramas, especially round-and-round railway layouts using Kato track or Peco flexitrack, as well as general model and wargaming displays.

What are the overall dimensions?

The overall size of the assembled unit is 600mm x 300mm x 250mm. The base height is 45mm and the backboard adds an additional 200mm, giving a total height of 250mm.

What material is it made from?

The kit is made from premium-quality 4.0mm laser-cut Medite MDF with a plain finish. The MDF is ready to be painted, decorated, or textured to suit your layout or diorama.

What is included in the kit?

You receive the laser-cut MDF parts for the base, backboard, and central supporting brace. Track, trains, wagons, scenery, glue, and paint are not included; any models shown in pictures are for illustration only.

What types of projects is this baseboard suitable for?

It’s ideal for:

• Model railway displays and small layouts
• Railway dioramas
• Wargaming dioramas and skirmish boards
• General model display bases

How is the product shipped?

The kit is shipped flat-pack from stock via EVRI within the UK, and via eBay Global Shipping for overseas customers. This helps keep shipping costs reasonable and reduces the risk of damage in transit.

Is this baseboard compatible with Kato and Peco track?

Yes. The size is ideal for a small round-and-round layout using Kato track or Peco flexitrack. You can also use other brands and scales as long as the track plan fits within the 600mm x 300mm footprint.

Does it come pre-assembled?

No, the baseboard is supplied in flat-pack form and requires assembly. The parts are designed to slot together with glue for a solid, rigid structure once assembled.

Is glue included?

No, glue is not included. A PVA-based wood glue is recommended; a product like Gorilla wood glue works very well for MDF joints.

Can I paint or decorate the MDF?

Yes, the MDF has a plain finish specifically so you can paint, stain, or texture it. It takes acrylics and most hobby paints nicely once sealed or primed.

Is this suitable for beginners in model railways or dioramas?

Yes. The kit is straightforward to assemble with basic tools and PVA glue, making it a good starting point for beginners while still being robust enough for experienced modellers.

Can I run wiring through the baseboard?

Yes. The central supporting brace includes two holes designed to make it easier to route wiring for track power, lighting, or other electronics.

The MDF edges are dark and there’s a smell. Is that normal?

Yes, that’s normal for laser-cut MDF. The edges have a dark, slightly scorched finish and there may be a mild smell from the cutting process. The smell fades quickly once the kit is out of the packaging and the edges can be painted or lightly sanded if you prefer.

There are marks on the MDF from the laser. What should I do?

Light scorch or handling marks can be removed by gentle sanding with fine sandpaper. In most cases they will be completely hidden once you prime and paint the surface.

The parts don’t seem to fit together properly. What can I check?

First, make sure you’ve identified each piece correctly and that you’re following the intended orientation. Check for:

• Any small burrs or tabs left from the laser cutting; these can be lightly sanded.
• Dust or debris in the slots; brush or blow this out before test-fitting.
• Warped pieces from storage; gently flex them flat before assembly.

The joints are loose or wobbly. How can I make the baseboard more rigid?

Apply a good bead of PVA wood glue to all mating surfaces and clamp or weight the joints while the glue dries. Ensure the central supporting brace is properly fitted, as it adds significant rigidity to the base.

The baseboard is rocking or not sitting flat on my surface.

Place the assembled unit on a truly flat surface while the glue cures, and weight it down if necessary. If a corner is slightly high after assembly, you can very lightly sand the bottom edges to level it.

The wiring holes aren’t lining up with my planned track feeds.

You can still use the existing holes for most wiring runs and extend with under-baseboard cables as needed. If you’re comfortable with tools, you can carefully drill additional holes in non-structural areas of the base to suit your layout plan.

The backboard doesn’t feel secure. What should I do?

Check that the backboard is fully seated in its slots and that you’ve used enough PVA along the entire joint. Adding a small internal fillet of glue along the seam, and allowing it to dry fully, will greatly increase strength.

What glue should I use for assembly?

A PVA-based wood glue is recommended. A product like Gorilla wood glue works very well on MDF. Avoid superglue for the main structure, as it doesn’t give you enough working time to align the parts.

Do I need any tools to assemble the kit?

You’ll find it easier with:

• A small brush or nozzle for applying PVA glue
• Clamps or some books/weights to hold parts while drying
• Fine sandpaper for cleaning up edges if needed

No specialist tools are required for basic assembly.

How should I prepare the MDF for painting?

Lightly sand any rough areas, remove dust, then apply a primer or sealer suitable for MDF. Once primed, you can paint with your preferred acrylic or hobby paints and add scenic materials as usual.

Can I use spray paint directly on the MDF?

You can, but it’s best to seal or prime the MDF first to prevent excessive absorption and warping. Apply several light coats rather than one heavy coat and allow each layer to dry thoroughly.

How can I hide the dark laser-cut edges?

A quick pass with fine sandpaper followed by primer and paint will hide the dark edges. For a really smooth finish, you can apply a thin filler or MDF sealer to the edges before painting.

Any tips for integrating this baseboard into a larger layout?

Many modellers treat this as a self-contained “scene box.” You can:

• Align track at the front or sides to connect to other boards
• Use the backboard as a scenic break or backdrop
• Keep wiring accessible through the central brace holes for easy connection to a main control panel